As Villa Vie Odyssey docked in Casablanca last week, I could hardly contain my excitement. Morocco has always been near the top of my list of historically intriguing countries. I’d sailed the Strait of Gibraltar and explored Spain, Portugal and a number of African nations over the years, and now again on the Odyssey.
But I’d never stepped foot in nearby Morocco.
Countries’ reputations are often exaggerated for tourism purposes, and Morocco is no exception. For example, visitors often find tourist destinations like the fabled Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca underwhelming. Conversely, security warnings can sometimes be based on preconceived notions or stereotypes and blown out of proportion.
The order of the day is always to use wisdom and adhere to travel advisories, but get out there and discover the true soul of a country.
Tangier and Rabat
My discovery had begun with a tour of Tangier a few days earlier. Making my way through the narrow streets and stalls of the medina, climbing to the top of the Kasbah, sampling the couscous and amazing teas, and soaking in the richness of the culture was for me the most gratifying experience since we’d set sail nearly a month ago. Now, when a few shipmates and I decided to get out of Casablanca and hop a train for the one-hour ride to the capital city of Rabat, I hoped it was the right call.
Because of an itinerary change, I was not able to do an overnight stay in Marrakesh as I’d planned. But I was not disappointed.
I was happy to learn that Moroccan infrastructure ranks highest on the African continent, and its rail system seemed modern and efficient. (Timeliness was key on our return to Casablanca as we were sailing that evening and didn’t want to be left behind!)
Spending a full day strolling the streets of Rabat probably provided the most thorough understanding of the country and its history. With a population of about 38 million and one of the largest economies in Africa, I found unexpected variety in everything from the architecture – with influences from the days of French and Spanish colonization in the 1950s – to the high-end stores with their rich fabrics and furnishings. And of course, like Tangier and Casablanca, there was the medina, where some of us probably did more shopping than planned.
Arabic, Berber and Jewish cultures are prominent in Rabat, with recent touches of modern Anglo-Americanism thrown in.
Ancient and modern
The highlight of the day was our visit to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. The last Sultan and the first King of Morocco, Mohammed V was a monumental figure in this country, particularly during the process of gaining independence. Construction of the Mausoleum began after his death in 1961 and was completed ten years later.
Mohammed V’s son Hassan II succeeded him and is now also buried there. The ancient Hassan Tower, built in the 12th century, is on the same grounds facing the mausoleum, although the Hassan II Mosque dedicated to the son is located in Casablanca.
The contrasting ancient and modern structures and vast grounds surrounding them are something to behold, and a history lesson in themselves. The buildings are guarded by traditional honor guards, regal and unmoving (although they were happy to pose for photos with children and anyone else who asked).
Religious or ceremonial customs must be observed upon entry, and it was refreshing to see that the tourists seemed respectful and interested to learn the historical significance of what they were experiencing.
Shopping
Making our way back to the station, a little more shopping was in order. Again I noticed the shopkeepers, from the older gentleman who’d fallen asleep leaving his wares untended, to others exhibiting extraordinary patience to a couple of tourists who didn’t deserve it, and still another who seemed just delighted to meet a Black American and proceeded to tell me all about his recent visit to New York.
Bargaining was expected, and most everyone spoke at least some French or English.
Overall, just experiencing the culture and traditions of this beautiful North African country was sort of like a balm. Enlightening and pleasing, it was everything I’d hoped for, but it left me curious to learn even more.
We’re still very early in Villa Vie Odyssey’s circumnavigation of the world. But for me, this Moroccan adventure was sort of like a stop on a hop-on-hop-off bus tour. It was just long enough to know that I must return!
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Read more about Morocco here in Dispatches’ archives.
Carla Bastos is a former journalist and newspaper editor. An American expat in Italy for several years, she now makes her home traveling the world aboard Villa Vie Odyssey.
