When I returned to Italy last fall after being away for more than a year, I noticed a different sort of vibe. Sure, it was holiday time – a more magical time in Italy than anywhere else I’ve experienced. But there was something else. The fast-approaching winter Olympic games in Nothern Italy had created a country-wide buzz, and the excitement around Tuscany was palpable.
No one I knew was rushing to get tickets to any of the events, mind you. Of course hordes of Italians did, but many locals avoid such influxes of visitors at all costs. (I remember many of us fleeing Los Angeles during the ’84 Olympics.) But, the enthusiasm and pride were through the roof, as was so evident during the opening ceremonies.
It’s been 20 years since the Olympics came to Italia, back in 2006 in Turin (Torino). This year is the third time Italy has had the honor, and the games were scheduled in dual northern cities, Milano and Cortina. It’s a wondrous region of the country, known for the beauty of the Italian Alps, the vacation destinations of the Dolomites, and for Milan, one of the fashion capitals of the world.
Accessible to everyone
Typically, when one thinks of visiting Italy, the first things that come to mind are the Roman Colosseum, the Florentine Renaissance history, the Venetian canals, Chianti vineyards and Neapolitan pizza … you get it. Or, for those doing Mediterranean cruises, the ports of Civitavecchia, Livorno, Naples and Messina are common, providing one-day excursions to enjoy those cities and experiences. The north is usually considered a destination reserved only for winter sports, or for the wealthy.
But, one of the wonderful things about Italy is that the country – the whole country – is accessible to everyone, and to every budget.
As with most popular destinations, tourist centers are going to be overpriced, even cost-prohibitive, during the Olympics. But, unlike some vacation spots around the world, there are easy alternatives in the picturesque northern region of Italy. Yes, you can still enjoy the beautiful Alpine landscapes, the spas and thermal baths in the Dolomites, and even the hottest fashion centers of Milan, all while staying in affordable local hotels.
A recent random search on Expedia revealed a variety of hotels in these destinations at an average per-night room rate of $150. Besides the accommodations, activities are also doable. There are budget-friendly hiking and biking tours through the most scenic historic and cultural centers, parks, lakes and cathedrals; day passes to affordable ski resorts for under $100; and, as in most of Italy, the tram and railway systems are excellent and affordable.
There are vast differences between northern and central/southern Italy, the most obvious being the climate (although there are also milder regions/seasons in the north). And of course, vacationing is one thing, but for those who may be interested in moving to the region, the differences are glaring. While it may not be the most popular expat destination, it’s definitely worth considering. There may be unexpected advantages.
Caveats and deal-breakers.
Digital nomads will find the north more accommodating due to its modern technological and industrial environment. In fact, in all respects it’s simply Italy’s modern hub. And start-ups may find more available opportunities in the north.
For retirees, the all-important quality of health care is second to none. But the cost of living is higher (in some areas substantially higher) and could be a factor in your expat decision. And, as I’ve warned repeatedly, Italian bureaucracy is insane!
This has not changed in the years since I arrived here, so whether you’re a digital nomad or a retiree, don’t expect an easy process. As with any expat destination, thorough research is required to unearth hidden caveats and deal-breakers.
But, that research should include a few recon trips, and northern Italy is one of the most beautiful spots in Europe, maybe the world, for wandering and exploring.
So, when you’re thinking of traveling to Italy, you’ll certainly want to take in the popular historic destinations throughout Tuscany and the south. But, if watching the games has piqued your curiosity even a little, then you won’t want to miss out on the view from the north.
Even if you’re not an Olympic skier.
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Read more about Italy here in Dispatches’ archives.
Carla Bastos is a former journalist and newspaper editor, and an American expat in Italy for several years.
