(Editor’s note: Carla Bastos is on a world cruise aboard the Villa Vie Odyssey. This post on the ABCs in the Caribbean, one of a continuing series of updates,)
When the Villa Vie Odyssey arrived in the Leeward Antilles and began our tour of the ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao), I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’d only visited Aruba briefly many years ago, and had no real knowledge of the three Dutch islands. The week turnedto be a highlight of our global circumnavigation so far, a treat that gave some of us a new appreciation for the Caribbean.
Situated just north of Venezuela, the ABCs are unique in many ways. Aruba, for example, is one of the most multilingual countries I’ve seen, with most of the population able to speak Dutch, English, Spanish, and the indigenous language of Papiamento. (Dutch is the main language because Aruba is a constituent country of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.)
All three ABC islands are ethnically diverse, largely due to their ugly history of the West African slave trade (which many say has still not been thoroughly reckoned with) and colonialism, as well as South American immigration. But today’s diversity makes for a fascinating environment in these westernmost Caribbean islands.
Bodacious bodega, snorkeling and booze
While we were docked in Aruba’s capital of Oranjestad, a little local exploring led to a most amazing off-the-beaten-path discovery. An historic building and former ice factory turned brewery, Bodegas Papamiento was situated away from the busy tourist boulevard. The original industrial vibe, the tasting bar, cigar lounge, coffee shop and food truck, combined for an oasis that I didn’t want to leave. I learned that preserving the island’s history is a priority to many establishments, despite today’s influx of tourists and commercialism.
Bonaire is the only one of the three islands that is a municipality, rather than a country, of the Netherlands. It is known for its beaches and coral reefs. (The name of the capital city of Kralendijk means coral dike). Bonaire is known for some of the best snorkeling in the world, which was confirmed by several of my shipmates who spent the bulk of our time there snorkeling. I didn’t snorkel, but I did gawk a lot at the clearest turquoise water I’d ever seen.
Another standout in Bonaire was the huge, hundred-year-old St. Franciscus Convent and its beautiful grounds. Containing a hospital, a school, a home for the elderly and a chapel that welcomes visitors of all religions, this was another unexpected treat in a day of exploring. While resting under a shady pergola on the grounds, I met Marviengela, a student who was on her way home but kind enough to share the convent’s history – yet another one of those “just wow” moments.
And then there was Curacao. I loved both the island and the liqueur. But the clincher was the kindness of the people – no one seemed to have that typical ulterior motive of taking advantage of ignorant tourists. Add the moderate climate and the amazing Queen Emma Bridge, the famous pontoon bridge that crosses the St. Anna Bay in Willemstad, plus the city’s vast Venezuelan street markets, and you have a comfortable, walkable and aesthetically pleasing destination that demands a return visit.
Good expat destination?
But the most stunning aspect of the ABCs, for me, was the Dutch colonial architecture – beautiful pastel colored buildings everywhere, with an almost unreal feel resembling neighborhoods where one might expect Barbie to live. With fairly arid climates, the region was a pleasant respite from the high humidity of much of the Caribbean. Other fun facts included the various currencies, which I was surprised were not interchangeable between the islands. There was the Aruban guilder (or AWG, also
called the Florin); the Antillean guilder, or ANG, in Curacao; but strangely, in Bonaire the U.S. dollar. The three islands seem to enjoy strong infrastructures and economies, which some say are largely due to the proximity to Venezuela and its oil production.
So, are the ABC Islands a good expat destination?
Based on chats with several locals, both pros and cons abound. Health care is generally considered good, possibly except for very remote locations. However, without private insurance or paying out-of-pocket which can be expensive, things like hospital accommodations will be disappointing. Of course, this is true in many countries with universal health care, so it comes down to a judgment call.
Real estate and rentals are also generally affordable but – as expected – beach locations maybe not so much.
Most of the Odyssey’s residents are Americans and savvy travelers. So, after our Atlantic crossing in November, and our recent four-month circumnavigation of South America, many weren’t looking forward to the Caribbean leg of our journey. We thought it would be a “been there, done that” situation.
But, the ABCs were different.
Overall, based on our brief visit, they are must-see destinations if you haven’t been, and must-return if you have. One can only hope a future tourism takeover doesn’t come along to change all that.
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See more about the Caribbean here in Dispatches’ archives.
Carla Bastos is a former journalist and newspaper editor. An American expat in Italy for several years, she now makes her home traveling the world aboard Villa Vie Odyssey.
