Too often, it seems, people visit Venice for the image of the place they’ve been sold second-hand by travel shows, history books and old honeymoon tales. They come away disappointed, feeling as though they’ve been to an overcrowded, overpriced and underwhelming amusement park. At least, those were the experiences reported back to me from friends of friends, whose disappointment was on my mind as I sat on a train to Venice.
The city itself is a very different story from what I’d been led to imagine, however. In fact, to say I was pleasantly surprised by Venice wouldn’t be doing it justice. It’s even more beautiful than any picture or story could possibly relate, first and foremost in precisely the parts most people wouldn’t visit. Crucially, Venice also is more welcoming, vibrant and – most of all – local than anyone who hasn’t visited could possibly believe. Indeed, these sides to the city almost certainly escape the attention of the majority who do visit it.
Through my wife’s work at the city’s Ca’ Foscari University and our stay in the house of a local restaurant worker, I’ve been lucky enough to discover the Venice of Venetians, with Venetians, right from my very first contact with the place. The version of Venice I’ve seen is all the more magical because it’s real, rather than a touristic fairytale which invariably proves too good to be true.
There’s far more to experience in Venice than St Mark’s and Rialto
St Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge are just two of the countless marvels worth visiting across Venice. Yet it seems as though the vast majority of visitors to the city focus almost exclusively on these landmarks. On a daily basis, I’d cross paths with hordes whose every move was directed by signs for “San Marco” and “Rialto.” Steering clear of these signs is a surefire way to discover a seemingly endless array of side canals and passageways showcasing the city’s ornate splendour, without having to do battle with dozens of selfie hunters.
Venice is made up of six districts, known as sestieri, of which St Mark’s is the smallest. Each of the other sestieri is just as antiquated and awe-inspiring in its own way. There isn’t a single pathway or square I’ve come across in the entire city that isn’t characterized by breathtaking Venetian architecture dating back to the 14th or 15th century. Yet beyond the main tourist haunts, the city is calm, blissfully car-free and populated by actual inhabitants, who live an active outdoor life of café meetups and dog walks.
Renting and buying a house in Venice can be surprisingly affordable
As someone who’s spent seven years in Lisbon watching house prices and rental costs spiral out of control, I was shocked to find a different story in Venice. Despite being among the world’s most sought-after real estate locations, the City of Water appears to be considerably cheaper per square metre than the Portuguese capital, while rent is far more affordable in relative terms.
The conditions of renting and buying property in Venice proper are strictly regulated for the city’s 51,000 inhabitants. An affordable housing scheme offers far more generous provisions per capita than its equivalent in Lisbon. Meanwhile, buying a small but centrally located two-bedroom property for less than 250,000 euros, something that’s unthinkable for the residents of most major European cities, is a regular occurrence in Venice.
Even renting a room in Venice will be an experience unlike any other.
You’re virtually guaranteed to live in a building that’s several hundred years old with many of its original features intact, and situated adjacent to a picture-perfect canal route.
There’s a whole different version of food and drink in Venice when you live there
Most tourists staying in Venice find food and drink inordinately expensive and far below the quality of other Italian cities. I was very fortunate not only to be staying in the house of a local, but a local who really appreciated her food.
She gave us a completely different, more budget-friendly version of Venetian food and drink from the one most people experience, from pasticcerias brimming with traditional pastries and desserts, to osterias tucked away in hidden alleyways offering exquisite local delicacies. We could get a large breakfast for two at less than 12 euros in total, and a three-course dinner for a fraction of the 100 euros people pay in restaurants aimed solely at foreign clientele.
We also found wine bars frequented by locals serving cicchetti for 1.50 euros with prosecco sourced straight from the vineyard. Moreover, a canteen on the southern edge of the city sells excellent pizza – a rarity in Venice due to the city’s unusually soft tap water and prohibition of wood-fired ovens – for just 7 euros.
Venice is an incredibly community-driven city
It might seem counterintuitive for one of the world’s oldest tourist destinations, but there’s a strong sense of community that binds Venice’s small population. Those who inhabit the city’s islands take great pride in making Venice a home for Venetians. The walkways are impeccably clean, the staff of local hangouts know their regulars by name, cultural endeavours are promoted everywhere you look, and neighbourhood squares are typically abuzz with daily catchups.
We were amazed to find our temporary landlord going out with friends most nights of the week, often on the spur of the moment, even with an early start at work the next day. And when a strike closed down the local primary school, my wife’s colleague took her daughter to play with classmates in a nearby playground, as their parents enjoyed a gathering of their own.
This isn’t a city completely overrun with tourists – at least, that’s not what I’ve seen of Venice. Perhaps you need the personal connections that come with being an expat living and/or working in the city to see these things.
Either way, I’m so glad I have.
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See more about Venice here in Dispatches’ archives.
Alex Beaton
Alex Beaton is a writer from London, UK. His published works include a guide to starting a business in Warsaw, a fictionalised account of his time living in Egypt, and a 2013 report of the political situation in Bulgaria. He has also written extensively about his travels in France, Portugal, Italy and Malta.
