Sometimes you want to go to a familiar place and sometimes you want to try something new. For this train trip, I was going to do both. Thanks to friends and relatives and living in Europe, I have spent a lot of time in Italy and Austria, including many days in magical Venice. However, I had not been to Croatia or Slovenia or any of the other countries in former Yugoslavia, though I had always wanted to.
I even had a book on Croatia and Slovenia from 10 years ago!
Should I train to and from Venice where I was staying with a friend, or what should I do? When I started calculating the travel time, I decided to fly into Zagreb and then travel back west towards Venice, in that way not having to repeat any cities and saving valuable holiday time.
Four countries by train
What do you do when you are training through four or more countries? Which train company do you pick? I had heard that getting around by train in Croatia wasn’t that easy. Therefore, even though it may sound strange, I decided to start with Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) as I had had good luck on multi-country journeys before. I booked through their online International Booking Service Center and it automatically put me on Österreichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB) (Austrian Rail) for my entire trip.
Zagreb, Croatia
First stop Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Zagreb, located in the northern part of the country, far from the Adriatic, is the largest city in the land with a population of almost 800,000. My plan was to spend three days and nights there, which I was really looking forward to.
I was given the inside scoop from a native Croatian, who suggested starting in the Lower Town to see Jelačić Square (the main square), the Cathedral (the Katedrala) with a stop at Amélie pastry shop across the way, and the Farmers Market (Dolac Market). Then I would take the funicular to the Upper Town to see the cannon shot at noon at Lotrščak Tower, visit St. Mark’s Church, cross the Stone Gate to see some historic houses, and visit some of the museums, such as the Museum of Naïve Art.
Coffee bars are everywhere to sip espresso and people-watch. Tkalčićeva Street is lined with restaurants and cafes, Nikola Tesla Street has many good eateries and the Esplanade Hotel has a recommended 5-star brunch on Sunday.
An affordable and tasty option for Croatian BBQ is Batak restaurants. Another typical treat is štrukli, a must-try savory or sweet strudel. You can sample it at La Struk, a small, cozy restaurant.
Next stop Ljubljana, Slovenia, which was only two and a half hours by rail from Zagreb.
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, has approximately 300,000 inhabitants, so less than half of that in Zagreb. Many years prior, I had seen pictures of Ljubljana, located on the Ljubljanica River, and it looked absolutely beautiful. So I was excited to spend three days in this gem of a city. Ljubljana offers mesmerizing medieval streets, captivating castles, picturesque parks and riverside rambles.
With plenty of recreational activities as well as an abundance of history and architecture, there is something for everyone. A place not to be missed.
Next stop Villach, Austria, which was just over one and a half hours from Ljubljana.
Villach is on the Drau River in the Carinthia region in south central Austria. This Alpine town’s population is a little more than 60,000. Whether it is skiing, hiking or a sightseeing walk in the old town, you will never be bored no matter the season. The reason I decided to stop here was two-fold: I was going to have to switch trains, with a long layover with plenty of time for a leisurely lunch. So I thought why not spend the night there with the hopes that relatives who live in Vienna would join me there, too?
Next stop Venice, Italy.
The Grand Canal (photo by Mary Porcella)
Venice
Next stop Venice, Italy, which was just over three hours from Villach. Venice’s population is about 250,000, which is spread throughout the islands and on the mainland. After arriving at Santa Lucia, the main train station, you disembark at the Grand Canal, which is a sight to behold with its ornate and colorful architecture.
From there you can make your way on foot on a meandering walk through typically crowded and narrow alleyways up and over bridges until you reach San Marco’s square. Alternatively, you can hop on a Vaporetto (a water bus) to get to your destination. I recommend both.
Since I was going to be in Italy, I decided to spend the night in Venice Mestre. It was also a good chance to test out the latest on the Venice Tourist Tax regulations. More on that below.
Venice tourist tax
Not all days are subject to the tourist tax. The tax days are typically on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays during the spring and summer. Since I was going to be there on a Thursday night, I would not need to pay the tourist tax. Additionally, since my hotel was in Venice Mestre, part of greater Venice, I would be given a QR code valid for the tourist tax entrance fee. See the website here for 2025 tax dates.
Four countries, four languages
You know me. I’m a language nerd. Out of respect for each country – in this case Croatia, Slovenia, Austria and Italy – alwaystry to learn at least a few pleasantries in the local language. In this case, my Croatian and Slovenian were non-existent before the trip, my German passable and my Italian fluent.
Luckily, Croatian and Slovenian weren’t always too different. To communicate, in less than two weeks, I would use two Slavic, one Germanic and one Romance language as well as my native English.
Have a Good Trip! Sretan put! Pa lepo potovanje! Gute Reise! Buon viaggio!
Final thoughts
There is no direct, non-stop train option from Zagreb to Venice (or vice versa). It takes a minimum of 10 hours to get there because of the stops along the way, and the required train change and long layover in Villach. (Alternatively, you could take a bus, which takes at least 8 hours, but I prefer the train.)
When booking in this region, as I have done, you can try some of the major rail lines, such as:
Mary Porcella is a Europhile who has lived in Germany, Norway, Italy, and the U.S. She is a writer, editor, and photographer. She loves seeing new places, returning to old haunts, and meeting up with family and friends. As of today, her travels have taken her to 20 European countries, and she hopes to visit the rest.
Receive the latest news and updates from Dispatches Europe. Get lifestyle & culture, startup & tech, jobs and travel news dispatched to your inbox each week.
