(Editor’s note:Carla Bastos is aboard the Villa Vie Odyssey on a multi-year cruise around the world. This post about the Tango in Argentina and Uruguay are part of that trip. You can see her earlier post about Morocco here.)
As the Villa Vie Odyssey approached Montevideo, Uruguay, I was pretty excited. I’d never been to the country and hadn’t done much research, so I didn’t really know what to expect. My true focus (and much greater excitement) had been reserved for Argentina, the country we’d be visiting after Uruguay.
I’ve always liked the idea of letting a new country speak to me. Rather than booking tours to the most popular destinations and activities, I like to first just explore and see what catches my eye.
In Montevideo, it was everything.
Uruguay v. Argentina
Almost immediately upon docking, I was struck by the contrast of old and new architecture. Then there was the rich history, celebrated with monuments to military heroes; the 14-mile long coastal promenade known as La Rambla (about half of which I trekked together with a shipmate); the art museums and the Italian, Spanish and Portuguese influences everywhere.
This place was amazing.
Streets were clean and safe, and the food to die for. But one thing blew my mind. I had heard nothing of the age-old debate between Uruguay and Argentina on the birth of Tango. But there it was. When asked, just about any Uruguayan would vehemently insist that the dance was theirs.
My anticipation of getting to Buenos Aires and dancing the Tango had been building for too long. Having studied the dance for years until everything was shut down due to Covid, and then having moved to Italy and not really been able to plug into the local Tango community, I couldn’t wait to get back on the dance floor—in Argentina, which I’d always known as this dance’s birthplace.
So, I was having none of Uruguay’s claims to this beloved, beautiful artform.
Many of my fellow Odyssey residents had booked tours including museum visits, Tango performances and dinners, or wine tastings centered around Argentina’s famed Mendoza Malbec. As soon as we were docked and cleared in the Buenos Aires port, there was what amounted to a mass exodus off the ship.
Argentina is a unique and fascinating country. Beyond the Tango and the Malbec, it is rich in natural resources and has one of the largest economies in South America, second only to Brazil (although, with controversy-ridden current far-right President Javier Milei, it’s on a political and economic roller coaster right now). But, the country boasts an impressive higher education system and, with numerous health care options, it’s even an intriguing expat destination.
My first Tango in Argentina
Photo by Carla Bastos
I was especially excited for those who would experience Argentine Tango for the first time, but I also knew there was an abundance of mediocre performers and instructors in tourist areas. The greats, the authentic dancers and true professionals, take their craft seriously. I wanted the real deal, so with a little research I was able to find a couple of world-class instructors with a studio in the Palermo region.
I booked two private lessons and then attended a practica (for practice, as the word implies) and two small milongas, the gatherings where Tango dancers go to dance. Although it had been a while (and I had never been a great dancer by any stretch to begin with), it was gratifying that I actually had no problem remembering the intricate steps and movements.
A bit of a challenge, but an indescribable thrill.
While most of my time in Buenos Aires was spent on the dance floor, I also visited a couple of other major attractions, one being the Carlos Gardel Museum. Gardel is known as the father of Argentine Tango music, but it was interesting that the museum’s main focus seemed to be his Uruguayan roots — further feeding the great debate.
Another stop that was more rewarding was the city’s world-renowned opera house, Teatro Colon. The building has been standing for more than 100 years, and has hosted greats like Caruso, Pavarotti and Barishnikov.
The city of Buenos Aires was certainly one of the standout visits in Villa Vie Odyssey’s inaugural circumnavigation. My expectations had been high, and my great Argentine Tango adventure did not disappoint. While I was reminded just how rusty I was, everyone was welcoming and I didn’t feel at all humiliated. I harkened back to the days when I did weekly lessons, practicas and milongas, and realized just how much I had missed it all.
And I decided then and there that my return to Italy later this year simply must include plugging into the local Tango community.
Receive the latest news and updates from Dispatches Europe. Get lifestyle & culture, startup & tech, jobs and travel news dispatched to your inbox each week.
