On Saturday, 21 June, Paris will throw its annual all-night musical bash: the Fête de la Musique. From symphonies echoing off centuries-old buildings to garage bands rocking out in alleyways, the whole city turns into one sprawling concert. It’s loud, chaotic, often beautiful, and absolutely free. Whether you’re just visiting or you’ve lived here forever, it’s the perfect excuse to stay out late, follow your ears, and dance with strangers in the street.
A brief history
Started in 1982 by the French Ministry of Culture, the Fête de la Musique was built on one very French idea: music should belong to everyone. The original motto – De la musique partout, des concerts nulle part – translated to “music everywhere, concerts nowhere”, sets the tone. Instead of paying for tickets and sitting in rows, Parisians are invited to play and listen in the streets, squares, stairwells, courtyards, and cafés.
More than forty years later, the party has only gotten bigger. More than a hundred countries now hold their own versions, but Paris remains the mothership.
Where the music happens (hint: everywhere)
There’s no single main stage. Instead, the entire city becomes one giant musical scavenger hunt. If you’re into big crowds and booming speakers, head to Place de la République, where major acts usually perform and people dance like it’s already July.
Prefer a more laid-back vibe?
Wander along Canal Saint-Martin with a bottle of something fizzy and listen to indie bands playing from balconies or barge roofs. Around Place Saint-Michel, you’ll find a noisy mix of student choirs, jazz duos, and people playing the same three chords on loop, and somehow, it works.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement is a great spot if you like your music with a side of
picnic, and if you’re into strings, brass, or choirs, follow the sounds to Place de la Madeleine or Palais Royal, where classical music meets majestic architecture and perfect acoustics.
How to get around without losing your mind
Your best bet is the Paris metro, which stays open late for Fête de la Musique —lines 1, 2, 5, 6, 9, and 14, plus RER lines A, B, C, and D, will likely be running until dawn, though maybe not as frequently. Some stations may close to manage the crowds, so check the RATP website closer to the day of the Fête de la Musique.
Taxis will be scarce, and driving is not advised unless your idea of fun is being stuck in traffic behind a brass band.
Walking is often the fastest and most fun way to get around, especially since you’re likely to stumble upon unexpected performances just by turning a corner.
What to wear
Think festival-meets-walking-tour. Wear comfy shoes, because you’ll be on your feet a lot. Bring a light jacket. It may be June, but Paris nights have a way of turning chilly just when you least expect it. Snacks, water, tissues (trust me), and maybe some earplugs if you’re sound-sensitive will all come in handy.
Public restrooms are rare, so plan accordingly, and don’t be surprised if you end up queuing outside a café for the bathroom with a folk trio serenading you from across the street.
Drinking rules
Parisians are generally pretty relaxed about drinking in public, and you’ll see plenty of people toasting with plastic cups and passing around bottles of wine. That said, some arrondissement impose temporary restrictions – especially around big gathering spots like République or Bastille – where glass bottles might be banned or alcohol sales limited.
The police will be out and about, mostly to keep things safe and friendly, but it’s always smart to stay on the right side of the law (and avoid glass bottles, just in case).
No tickets, just follow the sound of music
One of the best things about the Fête de la Musique is that it’s completely open. No wristbands, no tickets, no headliner you need to rush to see.
You can start in one neighborhood and end up dancing across town by midnight. You’re free to follow your ears and your mood: classical at 7, techno at 10, jazz at midnight, and some guy playing a saw with a violin bow at 2 a.m.
Why not? It’s Paris, and it’s summer.
The Fête de la Musique is not about perfection – it’s about participation. Whether you’re singing along badly, swaying to a cello in a church courtyard, or sharing a baguette with strangers on a street corner, you’re part of something fleeting and collective.
The music may fade, but the feeling sticks around. And if you manage to wake up the next morning without glitter in your hair and lyrics in your head, were you even really there?
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Read more about Paris here in Dispatches’ archives.
Charlotte Laborie grew up in England, Belgium and Switzerland. Charlotte then moved to Paris and graduated from Sciences Po Paris. She is still based in Paris, where she works in marketing.
