Tucked along the turquoise Aare River, with its medieval Old Town protected by UNESCO, Bern is Switzerland’s understated gem. It’s a city where time slows down just enough for you to notice the details. In the space of a weekend, you can soak in a delicious blend of history, design, and quiet grandeur.
The first time I arrived in Bern, I was immediately struck by its charm, and that happens with very few cities. This city, for me, is the love child of – bear with me – the Hague and Bristol.
I’ve been back quite a few times since, and here is how I would recommend a friend to spend their weekend if they only had 48 hours in Bern:
Friday evening
Start with a walk. Bern’s Old Town, with its arcaded streets and ochre rooftops, is one of Europe’s most beautifully preserved. The evening light turns the sandstone facades golden. Stroll across the Nydeggbrücke and watch the river curve like a silk ribbon below.
For dinner, head to Café Della Casa, a favorite haunt of Swiss politicians. It has been dishing up comfort food since 1892, just down the street from the Swiss Parliament. Expect Swiss classics like Bernerplatte, veal liver with Rösti, and oxtail stew. Main courses average about 35 Swiss francs, or 37 euros.
I recommend staying at the Hotel Belle Époque – it’s smack in the middle of Old Town and quite affordable. Rates start at about 130 euros per night.
Saturday
The bear is the symbol of Bern, where they’re kept in Bärengraben, or bear pits. Wake up early and head to the bear pit, a 5-minute walk from the Hotel Belle Epoque, and prepare to be very underwhelmed by not seeing the bears and staring at a hole.
The day can only get better from there, I swear.
Once you give up trying to see the bears, visit the Zytglogge, Bern’s iconic clock tower. If you catch it on the hour, you’ll see the centuries-old mechanical figures come to life.
Nearby, the Einstein Museum inside the Bern Historical Museum offers a glimpse into the physicist’s time in the city, perfect for a mid-morning wander. I didn’t know it, but Albert Einstein developed his theory of relativity while living in Bern and working at the Swiss Patent Office. You can also visit his old flat in the Einsteinhaus, just above a café in the old town.
By then, you’ll probably be starving. I recommend trying Nooch. This eclectic, Asian-fusion restaurant will do just the trick. The food is delicious, the waiters are efficient and lovely, so you’ll have a great time.
After lunch, swing by the Kunstmuseum Bern, located in the heart of the city. Its collection spans eight centuries, from Swiss masters such as Hodler to Picasso and Pollock. Temporary shows often feature thoughtful, socially engaged curations – one of the many ways Bern punches above its weight in the global art scene.
Then, head to the Rosengarten, a rose garden that overlooks the city and the Aare River. It’s home to more than 400 varieties of roses and irises, along with a mix of rhododendrons, open lawns and a small pond dotted with water lilies and fountains. Come spring, the Japanese cherry trees steal the show. From late March to early April, they bloom in a soft wave of pink, and by autumn, their leaves turn a bold, fiery red.
It’s hard to imagine now, but this peaceful park was once a cemetery for the Lower Old Town. That was back in the 18th and 19th centuries. The transformation into a public garden happened gradually, with the official opening in 1913. I absolutely adore this spot and never miss it whenever I go to Bern. You can then have dinner at the Restaurant Rosengarten. (Main courses average 35 Swiss francs. See the full menu here.)
Sunday
Start your Sunday at the Kornhauskeller, a cavernous former grain store turned elegant brunch spot. If you’re in the mood for something more casual, Adriano’s Bar & Café near the Bundesplatz serves a mean espresso and even better people-watching.
The highlight of the day lies just outside the center: the Zentrum Paul Klee. Designed by architect Renzo Piano, the building itself is a rolling sculpture, mirroring the hills that surround it. Inside, more than 4,000 works from Paul Klee chart the inner life of one of modern art’s most curious minds. Klee was born and grew up in Bern. Temporary exhibitions often explore Klee’s relationship with color, music, and movement, inviting visitors to experience art both intellectually and emotionally.
The reason I first went to Bern was for an exhibition on architect Le Corbusier at the Zentrum Paul Klee. I couldn’t find a picture of the Zentrum that did it justice, and showed the snowy-topped mountains in the background, so you’ll have to go yourself.
Linger in the light-filled atrium café, then return to the city by tram or on foot through the Kirchenfeld-Schosshalde hiking area, where you might spot locals reading under trees or walking their dogs. Spend the rest of the afternoon discovering Bern’s quieter side. Visit the Bundeshaus (Swiss Parliament) if it’s open, or lose yourself in Bern’s famous arcades, where antique bookstores and independent boutiques hide between chocolatiers and clock shops. The six-kilometer long district is one of the longest covered shopping promenades in Europe.
Before you leave, walk down to the Marzili district and dip your toes in the river or, if you’re feeling brave, join the locals for a float downstream. It’s Bern’s version of therapy.
Bern offers a kind of luxury that doesn’t announce itself with flash, but with space to breathe. Whether you’re here for the art, the architecture, or the atmosphere, you’ll leave feeling a little more human.
Enjoy your weekend!
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Read more about Switzerlands here in Dispatches’ archives.
Charlotte Laborie grew up in England, Belgium and Switzerland. Charlotte then moved to Paris and graduated from Sciences Po Paris. She is still based in Paris, where she works in marketing.
