Okay, expats – spring is here and it’s the perfect time to take advantage of the milder temps in Greece with a weekend trip to Ioannina. This lovely lakeside city is the capital of the Epirus region of northwestern Greece. Ioannina has a population of just under 65,000 and is well known for its rich history, its renowned university and its noteworthy silversmithing scene. The city, northwest of Athens and near the Albanian border, has clear elements of various cultures and religions such as Christianity (as is the case everywhere in Greece), but also (unlike most of Greece) elements of Judaism and Islam.
These give Ioannina a markedly different look and feel as compared to other Greek towns.
The lake
Lake Pamvotida (also referred to simply as “The Lake of Ioannina”) is a lovely body of water surrounded by beautiful greenery. A stroll along the promenade is a must-do when you visit. On one side of the walkway is the large and lovely lake and on the other are beautiful old trees and cinematic-looking castle walls.
The castle
Do spend some time walking around the neighborhoods within the castle walls. The area has character. The only cars allowed are those of the residents, so the streets are pretty quiet and there are lots of lovely side streets and beautiful buildings to admire.
The inner castle (called ‘the Its Kalé) is worth a visit for the views of lake and city alone, but the it also has a number of interesting sites to see, including the Fethiye Cami mosque, the tomb of Ali Pasha (the famous Albanian ruler of Ioannna under the Ottomans) and a couple surviving structures of the palace.
The Silversmithing Museum is also located within the inner castle walls and is worth a visit to look at the history of the craft, which is very important in the area.
Housed in a unique Greek Modernist structure, this museum focuses on the important antiquity of Epirus. There is an emphasis on the fascinating oracle of Dodona, the oldest known oracle in the wider vicinity and one devoted to a Mother Goddess.
Need some fresh air after your museum visit? Just a short walk from the Archeological Museum is Litharitsia Park. This little hilltop park is worth a short visit for its wonderful views of the city, the lake and the surrounding mountains. A great photo-op spot, for sure!
Ioannina Island
A short ferry ride from the city will land you on this rather touristy but unique little lake island, inhabited by just under 200 people and home to many monasteries. Wander around, enjoy the traditional old buildings, grab a lake trout meal … it’s a pretty little place.
If stalagmites and stalactites are your thing, do spend the time needed to visit this impressive cave which is located just outside the city. The tour takes 45 minutes.
Eats, sweets, treats
Greece is a small country but, much like its diverse topography, Greek cuisine has a lot of variation. Forget the moussaka and gyros; frog and eel dishes are popular in Ioannina, which makes sense considering its lakeside location. These and various lake fish dishes such as fried trout, can be found in many of the waterfront restaurants in the city and on Ioannina Island.
A different kind of humble pie
The whole region of Epirus is known for having the best savory pies in the country. Having lived through periods of significant poverty, people learned to not let any leftovers go to waste by making a tasty pastry pocket or crust and filling it with anything they needed to use up: nettles, potatoes, mushrooms, wild greens, cheese, zucchini, meat, cabbage or even lentils.
The pies typically don’t look like much but they are often incredibly tasty, usually incorporating flavorful herbs gathered on the nearby majestic mountains.
Sweets
Baklava (a nutty and spicy-sweet phyllo concoction) and sker bourek (a sugary almond and rosewater sweet) – both influenced by the Ottomans who occupied the region for many years – are probably the most popular traditional local sweets and definitely worth a try.
Wash it all down
The area around Ioannina is known for its wines. Try a glass from nearby Zitsa or Metsovo and you won’t regret it!
A Pittsburgher by birth, Christina T. Hudson is also half Greek and has – so far – spent most of her life in Athens, the chaotic but captivating capital city of Greece.
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