This is a very special year-round destination for anyone wanting to take in a different side of Greece. In 2023, UNESCO designated the Zagori region a World Heritage site, referred to as “Zagori Cultural Landscape.” Nearly 48 traditional stone villages dot Zagori, which is located in the mountainous northwestern region of Epirus on the Greece-Albania border.
Most people visit the area by choosing one village as a base and taking day trips or half-day trips to other villages in the area.
Stones arches are the symbol of the region.
My favorite villages in Zagori are:
Monodendri
Possibly my favorite central square in all of Greece is located here. Sit under the beautiful plane tree and enjoy the dappled sunlight with a tasty treat from one of several cafes and restaurants. An easy 15-minute walk on a lovely wide stone path from Monodendri will lead you to Aghia Psraskevi Monastery, where you can enjoy magnificent views of the Vikos Gorge.
FYI: The path is uneven so probably not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs. Be sure to check out the Rizarios Exhibition Center, which is located right next to the central square. The renowned organization often hosts wonderful exhibitions showcasing local life and culture.
Elafotopos
Elafotopos translates from the Greek to “deer place.” This village is so pretty and peaceful that, upon arriving, I felt like I was walking into an old storybook. Although it used to have quite a few permanent residents, today Elafotopos stands rather isolated as compared to the other villages of the area. As sad as that is, there is something really special about walking around a place where trees and stones dominate.
Be sure to grab a meal at Elafotopos Hotel where Kiria Eleni is in charge of rooms and meals and will serve you tasty bites along with the sweetest smile in all the land. You might end up sitting alongside the elderly village men playing a game of cards with lots of friendly joshing and hearty laughter.
Tsepelovo
This village has lots of character and is great for wandering around. The little stone side streets (steep and windy in parts) are perfect for a walk and an eye-level view into residents’ traditional stone homes. Be sure to duck into the perfect little garden of St. Nicholas church, which is located just off the main square.
Things to do
River Rafting and Swimming: Voidomatis River
Many rafting companies will meet you in Aristi Village to take you on a magnificent rafting ride down the Voidomatis, Zagori’s super-clean river that offers incredible views of the scenery.
If the weather is warm and you are brave, head to Aristis Bridge and go for a cool (very, very cool) dip along the picture-perfect river beach. At the very least, dip your toes in the water! Who needs a trendy ice bath when you have the Voidomatis River?
Gaze at the Gorge
• Oxya Scenic Overlook: A short and easy walk from the main road will take you to an observation area overlooking the Vikos Gorge. This stunning vantage point is well worth an even longer hike!
• Village of Vikos: Have a seat at the dedicated gazebo in this tiny village and take in tremendous view of the Vikos Gorge from the opposite side of the Oxya viewpoint.
Note: Hiking from Vikos village towards the springs of the Voidomatis River will provide you with different perspectives of this special landscape. It’s a steep hike, so be prepared if you decide to take it on. Many local young adults do an annual trek here in the spring when the waters dramatically make their exit from the earth.
Stone arch bridge of Konitsa
This single-span bridge sits like a perfect rainbow over the lovely Aoos River. You can even swim right under it in the summer! Don’t miss out on this opportunity if you make it to Konitsa. The village itself is nothing breathtaking but the bridge and swimming opportunity make it worth an afternoon visit.
Do not miss:
• Surreal stairway between Vradeto and Kapesovo
Approaching the highest vllage of Zagori – Vradeto – you will be amazed when you start to distinguish Vradeto Stairs, a 1,000-plus surreal steps that blend into the canyon wall and connect the two villages. Until the 1970s, when a road was built, this was the only way to get to Vradeto!
You can walk the steps up, down or both ways in decent weather. Just be sure to have shoes with good grip! The steps are uneven and grown over.
• Sarakatsani in Giftokambos
Between May and October, you can visit Giftokambos (near the village of Skamneli) to view the open-air exhibit of the traditional huts and animal enclosures once used by the historically-nomadic Sarakatsani people. The Sarakatsani are an ethnic Greek group of rather mysterious origin who were travelling shepherds in ancient times. You can also enjoy a nice coffee and/or meal at the restaurant next to the exhibit.
––––––––––
Read more about Greece here in Dispatches’ archives.
A Pittsburgher by birth, Christina T. Hudson is also half Greek and has – so far – spent most of her life in Athens, the chaotic but captivating capital city of Greece.
