As is the case with most European capitals, Athens is a bustling metropolis with an abundance of things to do on any given day. One of the common gripes of many city-dwellers is gentrification and that goes for us Athenians as well. There are whole sections of downtown Athens which are in the midst of this process, and the pros and cons that accompany it are obvious.
The truth is that the city looks and feels grittier than ever in many places but also has various pockets of culture, hipsterism and over–the-top opulence here and there. Kerameikos, Gazi and Metaxourgeio are three old Athenian working class neighborhoods located in the same area. All three communities are, to some degree, undergoing gentrification, but you can still enjoy lots of authentic sights and vibes from Athens past and present on nearly every corner.
Formerly the local seats of pottery, gas and silk, these three districts combine old and new Athens – not seamlessly, by any means, but that is part of their charm. Kerameikos is the old potters’ quarters; not hard to see the Greek root of the English word ‘ceramics’ in the name Kerameikos, right? Gazi (which means “gas” in Greek) is the area surrounding the old Athenian gasworks.
“Metaxi” means ‘silk’ in Greek and Metaxourgeio is where there used to be a major silk mill and where many silk workers made their homes. This area is full of concrete, so it’s baking hot in the summer, but perfect for cooler days and nights.
That is why I recommend that you come here in autumn or spring (or even on one of Athens’ mild winter days).
So, here’s what there to see and do in this very Athenian part of the city:
Look!
Benaki Museum
(138 Pireos St.)
Be sure you get yourself to the right place because the Benaki museums include The Toy Museum, The Museum of Greek Culture and the Museum of Islamic Art, among others. They are all actually worth a visit, but this one is the Benaki at 138 Pireos Street. I have seen excellent photo festivals, documentary screenings, art exhibitions and concerts here.
The website will tell you what’s on and when.
The museum café has some tasty treats and the museum shop has a special selection of Greek designer items such as silkscreen prints, art objects, hand-sewn journals, scarves, books, toys, jewelry and much more. (They also have an e-shop, where of course you can find more than in the brick and mortar store.)
The Pireos 138 gift shop is perfect if you are on the hunt for a unique wedding gift or an artsy souvenir from the Greek capital. Please note that, at time of writing, this museum is only open Thursday through Sunday.
Listen!
Gazarte
Some of the best in hip-hop, jazz, reggae, alternative rock, soul, folk, punk and more can be heard at this great cultural hub which has several stages at its convenient location right next to the Kerameikos Metro Station. You can hear some of the most promising newbies as well as some of the most internationally-renowned Greek and international musical artists here at one of Gazarte’s cool indoor or outdoor spaces.
Technopolis
Housed in the old gasworks factory, here you can find the Industrial Gas Museum as well as a number of venues hosting art exhibitions, seminars, food and handicraft festivals, educational events and a personal favorite of mine – the international annual Athens Jazz festival.
Avdi Square
The following recommendations are both located in historic Avdi Square. The plaza itself and the streets surrounding it are definitely worth a wander-through, whether or not you stop for a bite or a drink. You will find some interesting theaters, eateries and bars in the immediate vicinity. It’s not beautiful area, but it definitely has character and history.
Eat!
Seychelles
(Avdi Square)
A few items from menus past and present: Steamed clams, lamb with trachana, stuffed onions, grilled liver with pickles, cuttlefish with chickpeas, pork with figs and honey. Small, creative menu and fresh ingredients. Satisfying dishes are done very well at this informal Athenian bistro.
Drink!
Blue Parrot
(Avdi Square)
This is a bright, airy and stylish all-day café-bar, wonderfully decorated and perfect for a quality coffee in the morning or a colorful cocktail or fancy dessert in the evening. The food is very nice as well. Brunch items, pizza, salads, burgers, quesadillas and so on feature on the menu, but there are also some nicely-prepared vegetarian and vegan selections for those who find Seychelles a little too animal-oriented.
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Read more about Athens here in Dispatches’ archives.
A Pittsburgher by birth, Christina T. Hudson is also half Greek and has – so far – spent most of her life in Athens, the chaotic but captivating capital city of Greece.
