This beautifully unique rocky islet is linked by a causeway to the mainland of the Peloponnese, in southern Greece. Founded in the 6th century, Monemvasia was a significant cultural and commercial hub due mostly to its location on significant sea routes.
Topped by a ruined but fantastic castle which is well worth the climb required to get there, this is a one-of-a-kind place to visit.
Monemvasia is steeped in Byzantine, Ottoman and Venetian history and offers great food, stunning views and sweet strolls along ancient paths and buildings whose half-toppled walls have character galore.
Two towns in one
Both the summer and winter holidays are quite busy in Monemvasia so I would recommend visiting in autumn or spring if you can (apart from Greek Orthodox Easter time, which will be crowded as well). The castle town on the islet is amazingly car-free, but you can drive to the area just outside the castle walls and it is a four-plus hour car ride from Athens.
I have been twice, once in December, just before New Year’s, and once in May. December was atmospheric but pretty crowded. Early May was perfect (lively but not overrun) and the place was covered with wildflowers, of which I am a huge fan!
Within the castle walls, Monemvasia is divided into Lower Town and Upper Town, aka The Acropolis. The latter is now uninhabited and contains the ruins of the fortress, old homes, ancient cisterns and the very history-worn church of Hagia Sophia. You can stay at one of the many hotels on the islet, or you can book a room just outside the castle, on the mainland. While sleeping and waking within the walls is a special experience, getting a room in Gefira (just on the other side of the causeway) is nice too because you can enjoy full views of The Rock in different light, at different times of day.
The Lower Town is great for strolls along narrow streets and enjoying the rich architecture, such as the traditional three-storey residences. There are numerous boutiques, cafes and tavernas. All the businesses are tastefully restrained, adhering to stringent architectural guidelines, which are actually imposed, unlike the way things are done in other parts of the nation.
There is also an archaeological collection housed in an old mosque. The super-charming square in which the building is located is not to be missed, even if you don’t feel like perusing the historical collections.
Rich literary tradition
Monemvasia’s beloved literary son, Yannis Ritsos, was an internationally-lauded poet who was nominated twice for the Nobel Prize in Literature. He was born in Monemvasia into a wealthy family who suffered terrible illness as well as financial ruin. As a young man, Ritsos became a staunch leftist who experienced unfair imprisonment for his convictions and concerns regarding the working class. Today, there are plants to turn his childhood home into a museum.
As of today, you can visit the terrace of the home, see the bronze bust of the poet and enjoy the incredible view that he had as a child. While you’re there, be sure to check out some favorite local treats including: Monemvasia-Malvasia (a sweet wine) and Samousades (which are nutty and syrupy sweet treats, similar to baklava).
Fantastic beaches and an island
If you are looking for a quick swim break, head for Portello Beach which is just outside the castle walls. It’s rocky but nice if there aren’t too many waves. If you have small children or simply enjoy sandy beaches more, there are several nice ones just north and south of town.
I also highly recommend driving about 20 kilometers to the north of Monemvasia to visit the picturesque fjord and tiny and tranquil harbor of Gerakas (not to be confused with the nearby Ierakas). This is a magical little spot which is perfect for a fresh seafood meal and a walk.
Just over an hour from Monemvasia is the tiny island of Elafonisos, where you can swim at one of the most renowned beaches in the region, if not in all of Europe – Simos Beach, which also happens to be protected by UNESCO.
There are several other wonderful beaches around Elafonisos. Even though there isn’t much to do on the island other than swim, it’s worth the short drive (and a 10-minute ferry ride). The waters and sand are simply spectacular! The port of Pounta is where you drive to catch the ferry.
Tips:
Take water, a hat and wear sturdy shoes when on the islet, especially when making the ascent to the Upper Town. The pathways are steep and slippery in many places. People with mobility issues, please be warned as well.
A note to the parents and guardians of young children:
When walking around town, as well as the ruins, you might suddenly come upon a dangerous ledge without a railing and there are parts of the castle which can also be unsafe for little ones.
Safety railings and so on are not guaranteed in Greece so be sure to keep those little ones close and to warn older children to exercise great caution when running around.
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Read more about Greece here in Dispatches’ archives.
A Pittsburgher by birth, Christina T. Hudson is also half Greek and has – so far – spent most of her life in Athens, the chaotic but captivating capital city of Greece.
