(Editor’s note: This is Pt. 2 of a two-part post about Cambodia. You can jump to Pt. 1 here.)
Cambodia continued to fascinate us and following our visit to Siem Reap we travelled to Phnom Penh the country’s capital.
You can get to the capital city one of two ways from Siem Reap: a 45-minute flight from Siem Reap Angkor International Airport or a 5-7 hour taxi drive or bus journey, which of course allows you to see more of the country itself and maybe factor an overnight stop. We chose to fly as we had a baby travelling with us. The Chinese built airport at Siem Reap was only opened in 2023 and has yet to see its predicted capacity, so it was quiet!
Phnom Penh
Like many Asian large cities Phnom Penh, the most populous city in Cambodia, is full of mopeds, tuk-tuks and taxis which seem to follow their own road rules. So, the city is noisy, smelly, dirty and slightly overwhelming at first!
The city is built at the confluence of two large rivers and is home to the Cambodian royals. During the French colonial days, it was known as “The Pearl of Asia.” Sadly, during the 1970’s and the Khmer Rouge regime, the capital was forcibly evacuated and remained a ghost town until 1979. The city is rebuilding with international investment and there are still beautiful colonial buildings on the streets, many showing the scars of the city’s tragic history.
*This is a city that requires you to take your personal security seriously.
What To Do
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
Admittedly this doesn’t shout “Happy Vacation,” but if you are interested in the history and the tragedy of Cambodia then this is place. Originally a high school, it became a prison and execution centre for an estimated 20,000 people at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. The museum tells the horrific stories of the genocide that occurred in Cambodia in the 1970’s.
The Royal Palace Complex
This complex is definitely worth a visit as the buildings are stunning. Comprising of the Throne Hall, the Moonlight Pavilion, the Napoleon Pavilion, the Banquet Pavilion, the Silver Pagoda (also known as The Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and the Khemarin Palace (the king’s official residence) some of the buildings are not accessible to enter but all are worth seeing even if it is from the outside. The Silver Pagoda is beautiful inside, but the silver floor is covered so don’t be too disappointed. The buddhas are incredibly beautiful and the peaceful atmosphere a blessing after the noisy chaos of the city streets! Surrounding the Silver Pagoda is the Ramayana Mural, a stunning painting telling a classic Indian tale. We appreciated the detailed replica of Angkor Wat in the grounds, as it gave us a bird’s eye view of the temple we had previously visited.
Tips:
* Visitors must cover shoulders and knees.
* Plan your visit early morning or late afternoon to avoid the tour groups, we also found midday a good time as long as you are prepared for the heat.
* This is a royal residence and place of worship so decorum and respect are very much required.
* A guide, usually available near the ticket office, is well worth paying for.
The National Museum of Cambodia
This museum is full of ancient Khmer artifacts and a nice reminder that Cambodia is so much more than the “Killing Fields.” The ticket price is low in comparison to European prices and audio guides are available.
Wat Phnom
Wat means temple and this temple is at the top of the only hill in the city. The hill is purportedly where the city first began and is a delightful tree shaded break from the hot sun. Check out the fruit bats nesting in the trees!
Preah Sisowath Quay
This street runs alongside the Tonle Sap River and whilst during the day it is somewhere to get a cooling breeze or access to the day cruises, at the weekends in the evenings it is alive with music, the Night Market, and people out enjoying the vibe.
Preah Sisowath Quay
There are several of these based along Preah Sisowath Quay and provide a few enjoyable hours cruising along the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers with a cold drink in your hand.
Silk Island
To get to this island in the Mekong River requires an organized tour, a tuk tuk ride. Or, if you a really brave soul, a moped journey across on the ferry. The production and weaving of silk is unsurprisingly the main event here. The island is also somewhere to explore by bicycle or tuk tuk, only 4 kilometers from the city but a oasis of quiet countryside. There are places to stay here too if you don’t fancy the noisy city.
The Central Market
This beautiful art deco building is worth visiting just for the architecture alone but the option to buy souvenirs and low-priced clothing is also a great attraction for some. You can even get suits tailored by hand for you here if you have a couple of days in the city. The surrounding area has many beautiful old colonial buildings.
Street 240
A lovely shopping street with local crafts, clothes made in Cambodia and little cafes and restaurants.
Where To Eat
Located on Preah Sisowath Quay and had really delicious Japanese food.
A great rooftop spot for cocktails and views across the river and city.
This bar, found at the legendary Raffles Hotel, is another glimpse into the French colonial days. They even serve the Femme Fatale, a cocktail created for Jackie Kennedy along with Asia’s largest collections of gin. They still have the glass Jackie Kennedy drank from apparently. Check out the half price Happy Hour!
Where To Stay
Of course there are great places to stay in Phnom Penh from the prestigious to hostels…somewhere for everyone.
The 5-star colonial hotel, opened in 1929, has soothed and cherished the rich and famous, from Charlie Chaplin, Charles de Gaulle to Jackie Kennedy. With its two pools and sumptuous rooms this is definitely for special occasions.
• White Mansion Boutique Hotel
Originally the US ambassador’s residence this 4-star hotel is a beautiful colonial building, complete with lap pool. It has a great coffee shop which is open to all, Le Café.
This lovely hotel is comprised of several colonial buildings, some of which were once the Queen Mother’s residence and the home of the palace vet. The hotel is an oasis of serenity with two pools and is child-free which was a bonus! Highly recommended.
Islands
If you tire of culture and city life there are several Cambodian islands to visit where you can kick back & relax. I am loathe to mention them as they are much quieter than the Thai islands, which is bonus.
So, don’t mention them to your friends!
The three we had experience on were Koh Rong Sanloem, Koh Rong and Koh Te Kiev.
These are small, remote islands and the only means of access is by small ferries from Sihanoukville on the coast. Do not expect ATM’s and there are only tiny convenience stores. So, be prepared before you travel. Although idyllic, expect trash on the beach in some places, the inevitable plastic mainly washed onto the shore from the ocean. A stark reminder of how we need to change our ways.
Koh Rong
Koh Rong is the more popular of the three with larger hotels and resorts. It had a busier vibe, infrastructure, roads and stunning beaches. Definitely popular with the younger crowd, but many of the resorts are high-end, so expect a diverse crowd.
Koh Rong Sanloem
Koh Rong Sanloem was our residence for a few days and I’d personally describe it as a little bit of paradise! More of a low-key island with young families and backpackers being the majority of visitors. It’s quiet sandy beaches are backed by jungle, small beach cabin-style hotel “resorts” (nothing higher than ground level) and locally run restaurants. There are no roads on this island, other than a logging road through the jungle from east to west ~ a 30 minute’ish walk. So, if you want to visit a different part of the island then you will need to travel by boat. The beaches are sandy, the water warm and the vibe chill and friendly.
Coco Bungalows
We stayed at Coco Bungalows, which had just six wooden cabins facing the sea and a super little restaurant. It was very tranquil and a good place for families, just five minute’s walk from the sandy beach.
Island Centre Point
A more upscale hotel with small villas on the stunning 3-kilometer-long beach of Saracen Bay.
Many more options both on Saracen Bay and in the north at M’Pai Bay. Lazy Beach and Sunset Beach on the west coast are also both beautiful beaches and have cabins to rent and small restaurants but this area is more remote.
Koh Te Kiev
Koh Te Kiev is the opposite of Koh Rong; more remote with a few guest houses, a small local community and a few hippy-style hostels. The only transport has to be organized with your hostel. There is nothing here but beaches, un-spoilt jungle and the few back packer resorts, so be prepared. Even the wifi is on vacation here much of the time so you really are stepping off-grid.
Cambodia is definitely worth visiting as long as you arrive expecting it to be a little rough around the edges. The locals are kind, friendly people, proud of their country and culture and happy to have you visit.
Before you realize it, you’ll be planning a return visit to see a little more.
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Read more about Asia here in Dispatches’ archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
