(Editor’s note: Cambodia has been involved recently in a border dispute with Thailand. However, the two nations are currently in talkes to resolve their issues. The U.S. State Department has issued an advisory about traveling to the border.)
I love to travel in Europe but this spring I stepped outside my comfort zone and travelled to Asia for the first time, to the fascinating country of Cambodia.
The southeast Asian country of the Kingdom of Cambodia is bordered by Thailand, Laos and Vietnam on three sides, with the Gulf of Thailand on the fourth side. Cambodia has a turbulent history: It was once a powerful empire, then became a French protectorate before independence and the horror of the Khmer Rouge rule, followed by invasion by Vietnam. Finally in 1993 it became a constitutional monarchy. But, as in many countries recovering from civil war, Cambodia continues to pursue financial recovery.
Tourism is the second-largest source of revenue and backpackers make up a large part of that tourism. There are five main destinations; Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, Battambang, Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville.
But there is so much more to this evolving country.
Siem Reap
The tourist town of Siem Reap is mostly used by tourists who wish to visit the temples in the Angkor Archeological Park, but it’s a great spot to stay for a few days.
What To Do
Angkor Archeological Park is the destination of millions of visitors to Cambodia and so important to the country it is even featured on their flag. The UNESCO Park is 400 kilometers 2 containing 72 major temples and several hundred temple sites but most come for the most iconic, Angkor Wat.
In the town of Siem Reap you can find plenty of places offering tours of the park. We used Angkor Wat Travel Tours and took the Sunrise Tour, purely as we had a young child with us and figured it would be cooler during the morning. It was an early start (4:30 a.m.) but gave us the afternoon to relax in the pool.
When I read that I would want more than one visit to the park my first thought was, really? Let me tell you, it’s true, if you love history and photography!
The temples are in various states of ruin (think “Tomb Raider” or “Indian Jones”) but are still so beautiful and peaceful. We saw seven temples on our tour (Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple, Ta Prohm, Nokor Thom, Baphuon Temple and Banteay Kdei) each one different and our guide so enthusiastic about his country’s heritage that the 6-7 hour tour passed in a flash.
Cultural awareness
* Be aware that these are Buddhist and Hindu temples and as such you need to dress accordingly and respectfully (shoulders and knees must be covered). The Cambodian scarf or “krama,” which is sold on every street corner, is excellent to drape around shoulders or wear as a skirt.
* It’s hot and/or rainy, with mosquitoes, so bring an umbrella (good for rain and shade), plenty of water and snacks (there are few, if any, places to buy anything), sunscreen and insect repellent.
Satcha Cambodian Handicraft Centre
This craft centre is great. It is an “incubation centre” where local artisans improve their skills, learn how to run a business and are helped on to the road of entrepreneurship. The centre offers tours that explain their philosophy and shows the various skills of the artisans: weaving, rattan basket making, ceramics, painting, wood carving, and jewellery making. There is a wonderful gift store, a café and the surrounding garden is an oasis of peace.
Made In Cambodia Street Market
A local street market that supports local artisans, some with disabilities and sells delightful locally made handicrafts.
War Museum
This small museum has a unique collection of weaponry, Local guides who were either landmine victims, veterans or eye witnesses will take you around the collection for free and share some of their knowledge and experiences.
Phare Circus
This circus has a fascinating history, being started with young men returning from a refugee camp following the Khmer Rouge regimes end. Helped by an art teacher, a school was started in the neighbouring town of Battambang, a school offering free education and gradually an art, theatre and circus school evolved. The show has some of these students tell Cambodian stories and history through acrobatics. In Siem Reap, or Battambang, you can enjoy their enthusiastic and skilled performances for prices starting around 16 pounds and up. There is also a food “street market” to grab food before the show.
Book ahead!
Cambodian Landmine Museum
Although not the usual museum people visit on vacation, this museum serves a valuable purpose of fund raising for education of at-risk children, and education of tourists regarding the continuous problem of landmines in Cambodia.
Where To Eat
Siem Reap is full of great local and international restaurants. Take a stroll down Pub Street and you are bound to find something you fancy in the many restaurants and bars. If you are feeling brave there are street vendors selling local delicacies including fried spiders!
• Gelato Lab is a tiny little place in an alley near Pub Street that serves really delicious gelato.
• Café Indochine Restaurant has delicious Khmer food served in a traditional building.
• Eric Kayser Bakery The French left their baking skills in Cambodia and this place served the best bread and croissants outside of France!
Tuk tuk tours
The distinctive tuk tuk is a three wheeled vehicle found over most of Asia and is a fun way to get around towns and cities and often offer tours.
Two tips:
- Grab is an app used in many Asian countries and is much like Uber so gives a sense of safety, and a guaranteed cost … no haggling. It’s so much like Uber that Uber sold part of its Asian operations to Grab in 2018.
- Keep all bags and valuables attached and in the centre of the tuk tuk for safety.
Where To Stay
Siem Reap has plenty of hotels (two-to-four stars), apartments and hostels to choose from according to your budget.
We stayed in the colonial style Château d’Ankor La Résidence, which was perfectly located, slightly away from the hubbub of downtown and offered apartment-style accommodation with friendly staff, a lovely pool and pool-side bar. (Rates start at about 50 euros per night.)
Siem Reap was a wonderful place to start our Cambodian adventure and in Pt. 2, I’ll tell you about the capital city, Phnom Penh and some of Cambodia’s islands.
TIPS:
* Don’t drink the water. Water systems are iffy and bottled water inexpensive and safe.
* Be aware of pickpockets and moped “snatch” thieves who are known for grabbing bags and phones from tourists walking or riding in tuk tuks. That being said, we had zero problems during our visit.
* Use Grab, the Asian Uber for transport. It means no haggling, you know the cost and if there is a language problem, it is much easier.
* If you, like me, have food allergies or intolerances, print out information cards in the local language (Khmer) to show in restaurants. It helps explain your allergy, even if the choices offered to you are slender.
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See more Asia travel posts here in Dispatches’ archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
