Recently someone suggested I go to Crete for a vacation and my immediate thought was, “But isn’t Crete one of the most popular Greek islands?” I do not enjoy crowds and overly touristic places, so I am always hoping for an “off the beaten path” location, even in a popular destination.
Being the largest and most populous Greek island, Crete is popular for several reasons, including numerous beaches and the mountain range running through the centre with its biodiverse gorges. The fact that it is the most southerly of the islands means the southern and eastern coasts have excellent weather. In fact, Crete holds the record of most sun in Greece. Although winters can be cold (10-15 Centigrade) and wet, it is still worth an off-peak visit.
Crete also has an amazing history from the early civilization of the Minoans through visits from the Romans, Arabs, Turkish and Venetians, all of whom have left their impact on the island.
The area we picked in Eastern Crete seemed to fit my requirements and of course, avoiding peak season also was beneficial.
The small town of Sisi (also spelled “Sissi”) suited me perfectly, and I am reluctant to spread the word as it was such a peaceful spot.
Sisi
The town is around 45 kilometers east of Heraklion and was once a small fishing village. There is, of course, some development around the town. But once you hit the harbour, you really get the sense of the cute small village it once was. The inlet is protected by a sea wall, and the small fishing boats tied up along the small waterfront create a charming photogenic view.
What to do in Sisi
Sisi has four beaches, all different but with pretty much something for everyone:
• The Port Beach can be found at the harbour entrance. Personally, this was not my favorite spot, but the water is calm as it sheltered by the seawall and the beach sandy. It’s also a great place to watch the sunset.
• Boufos Beach is a 15-minute walk and has sun beds, parasols and restrooms. Whilst we were there, vendors selling fruit or doughnuts visited a couple of times. Gyroscopio café is a short walk from the beach and – perched on the hillside – has great views to go alongside its drinks and snacks.
• Avlaki Beach, a short scramble around on the rocks from Boufos, or a slightly longer walk by road brings you to a small quiet cove. This beach has no facilities, but we enjoyed having it to ourselves as most people seemed to walk through to the next beach ….
Kalimera Hotel Beach has a sandy beach with sun beds, parasols, bars and activities. Beaches in this area tend generally to be pebbles, so beach shoes are a bonus!
Bars and Clubs ~
Sisi has some great bars that are open late, but it is a low-key town. If it’s nightlife you’re looking for, it’s best to head to Malia or Hersonissos.
Activities ~
• Sisi Mini Golf is a fun little spot, especially with teens and older kids. They have a little bar, an 18-hole mini golf course, some pool tables and an air hockey table.
• Sissi Travel & Tours has a large selection of activities on their books, from quad bike tours for those who like noise and dust to sunset cruises for those of us who are looking for a more peaceful activity.
Boat rentals are available with or without captains for snorkeling and fishing.
Where to eat and drink
Most restaurants are family owned and run, which adds an extra level of friendliness to the visit. We witnessed many return guests, which speaks to the great experience and food. Most of the menus are simple Greek food done well. There is a generosity you don’t get elsewhere, such as free fresh fruit and glasses of raki at the end of the meal. Gluten free options were available in most restaurants.
• Taverna Amelia ~ Owned by the same family as Oliver’s Steakhouse. Another friendly restaurant with great food. Once a week they host a traditional Greek night but book early.
There are many places to stay, from rented rooms, apartments, family run hotels and fancy boutique hotels.
• Porto Sisi Hotel Apartments~ We stayed at this delightful apartment hotel which was small, low-key and quiet with a small pool and amazing views of the sea.
• Palm Bay ~ One of the larger hotel complexes in Sisi.
• Milatos Beach ~ A small village about 15 minutes by car from Sisi. It has a picturesque harbour, a long pebble beach (which can have rough seas) and the Milatos Cave, which is a car ride or a 30-minute hike.
Heraklion ~ The largest city in Crete and as such has a plethora of the usual activities. We visited one, the ancient Minoan city of Knossos, which is just outside the city. It also has a world-renowned archeological museum. This is an easy place to get to by public transport, car or organised tours.
Knossos ~ The UNESCO world heritage site of Knossos is one of the oldest cities in Europe, and the palace was built around 2000 B.C. It was excavated in 1900, and the large archeological site is a very popular tourist destination. You can hire local guides at the gate, which I recommend, or download the app for a tour.
This is also an easy place to get to by public transport, car or organised tours.
*During the busy months I recommend you buy tickets online to avoid the crowds.
• Malia Palace ~ an ancient Minoan and Mycenaean UNESCO archeological site close to the resort town of Malia. It is lesser known than Knossos and you can wander this historic site and enjoy the chirping of cicadas rather than fellow tourists.
• Lasithi Plateau ~ 900 meters above sea level, this beautiful plateau is worth a visit either by car or organised tour. It is also a popular spot for cycling, motorbiking and hiking. The area is verdant with fields of olive trees on the way up and fields of vegetables within the bowl of the plateau. Centuries ago, there were thousands of water pumping windmills but now the only ones you see are those left for the tourists. Within the area is a cave to explore, small villages and monasteries.
• Spinalonga Island~ This small fascinating island has a big history. Once a Venetian fortress in the 1500’s, followed by its time as a leper colony from 1904 to 1957, when leprosy became treatable. It’s a short boat ride from Plaka, a slightly longer one from the resort town of Elounda. Tour guides wait by the gate to offer tours, or you can use the app. If you have read “The Island” by Victoria Hislop, you will know the island’s story.
• Plaka ~ A small harbour town that offers boats to Spinalonga or day trips has a few nice restaurants, some small gift stores and a pebble beach from which to swim. We had lunch at Isla Bistro and enjoyed the beach seating and walkways from which to enter the water.
Agios Nikalaos ~ The port town of Agios Nikaloas (St. Nicholas) is known for its picturesque lagoon in the centre of the town and has a great collection of stores to browse. I highly recommend Carpe Diem and Kivotos design stores for locally made gifts.
Sisi was a “find” for sure and I’m reluctant to share, so do me a favor … don’t tell everyone!
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Read more about Greece here in Dispatches’ archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
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