(Editor’s note: This is the final installment of Thom Harding’s series documenting activities in Vienna for kids and families, inspired by the birth of his own child. You can see more here, here and here.)
It is well-documented that Vienna is one of the most ‘livable’ cities in the world, demonstrated by it’s consistent position in the No. 1 or the No. 2 place of the Economist’s Global Livability Index since 2015 (excluding a brief relegation in 2020 and 2021 due to Covid restrictions).
Much of this comes from positive statistics such as rent price, job opportunities and so forth. But there is an important element in livability that is harder to quantify: opportunities and programs for kids and families. In the next few months, I hope to use my position as a new father to lift the lid on the huge amount of events, locales and happenings arranged by the city of Vienna for families.
For our final installment in our “Vienna for Families” series, we will focus on how to get outside and enjoy the last few weeks of cold weather in the city with ice skating and sledding. Although this winter has been less than inspiring due to extremely cold temperatures and grey days, we still all need to have some fun and get some fresh air.
While it might feel like spring is around the corner, there are still two or three months to get outside and take advantage of the chilly weather.
Fingers crossed for more snow!
Excitement on the ice – Skating in Vienna
As with any city in a country that prides itself on it’s winter sports, Vienna has no shortage of ice- skating rinks. Many of the ice rinks also host single or group lessons for beginners, or for kids more comfortable in skates who are interested in figure skating or ice hockey. But of course, they are always available just for a fun afternoon out.
• The most famous (and popular) place to go ice-skating in Vienna is at the Wiener Eistraum in the park in front of the Rathaus. Although it can be incredibly busy and packed with tourists, there is no denying that the beauty of the Rathauspark, lights twinkling and blinking amongst the trees, makes it worth it. The winding paths throughout the park are also a lot more fun than a simple oval ice rink, made even more exciting by dodging the many visitors who have never worn skates before.
The season runs from 23 January to 2 March .
• One of the other popular rinks in the centre of the city near Stadtpark is the Wiener Eislauf- Verein. Open since 1867, this is the largest rink in the centre of the city and is an institution unto itself. Hosting diverse levels of courses and lessons, as well as evening events, the Eislauf-Verein is also the most well-equipped, with plenty of lockers and space to change and two cafes for drinks and snacks. Best of all, it is the only ice rink I have been to that has a small hut for beer or punsch in the middle of the ice!
The season runs from 8 November to 9 March.
• Although a little farther from the centre of town, one of my favourite ice rinks in the city is the Engelmann rink in the 17th district. Also hosting lessons and evening events such as Eisdisco, complete with lights and funky music, Engelmann stands out for where it stands – on top of a rooftop with views the surrounding district. The rink also has a sweet little cafe, and an authentic down-at-heel vibe.
The season runs from 8 November to 9 March.
• Lastly, for those looking for an inside rink with a longer season and newer facilities, the Eisring Süd in the 10th District provides a great weather-safe alternative with far fewer tourists. The large rink also provides lessons and courses, along with the quintessential bare-bones cafeteria. (I think all ice-rink cafes have been trapped in time since 1978).
Something unique on offer at Eisring Süd however are it’s different evening skating events, even including a live rock band on the ice during December!
The season runs from 20 October to March.
Hysterics on the hills – Sledding in Vienna
Assuming that we will be lucky enough to have a few more snowstorms this year, the undulating topography of Vienna lends itself perfectly to sledding. Even away from the large hills that lead to the Wienerwald in the Northeast of the city, there are great sledding hills for kids both in and outside of the central city. And of course, because it is Vienna and Vienna loves families, the city government has already created a page on their government website to help you find the best hills for sledding in your area.
Although my child is still a little young for it, I have an inner child that is always excited for snow, and can recommend the following sites to grab your sled and be a kid again.
• In the end of the 18th district approaching the hills, the meadows of Schafberg have some long, uninterrupted spaces to sled down with a beautiful view over the districts of Hernals and Semmering. On the other side of the hill is Pötzleinsdorfer Park, which although is quite wooded has a decent hill leading into the playground. It’s perfect for kids, as there are also barriers set up after snowstorms to keep the kids safe while sledding.
• Also, on the outside of the city, with the best view from the highest hills of the Wienerwald, Cobenzl has some great fields around it to sled down after a relaxing walk in whitened woods. The Roter Berg near the Lainzer Tiergarten in the 13th district is also a wide and beautiful natural space with rolling hills perfect for playing in the snow!
• If your time is short and you can’t make it to the exterior districts, the Kurpark Oberlaa in the 10th district also has some lovely spaces and runs to slide down amongst the trees. And of course, the Prater in the centre of the city never disappoints for family fun with quite a few areas of gentle slopes (although of course in the centre of the city the hills are shorter and easier than in the larger parks near the forests).
Ready for real mountains?
Lastly, if you have the time and adventurous spirit to head outside to the real mountains for sledding, the best place within a reasonable journey are the steep hills of Semmering. While there are a few ski areas near the ever-popular peaks of the Rax region, the winter sports resort of Hirschenkogel in Semmering also has an epic 3-kilometer sledding run.
Jump on the Hirschenkogel cable car from the ski area (with either your personal or rented sled) and enjoy the long leisurely slide back to the bottom. Lit by floodlights, the sledding run is also possible after dark. And for the younger sledders, there are also kids slopes for sledding near the Happylift by the ski resort.
So grab your skates and your sleds, bundle up in your warmest clothes, and take the family for some slipping, sliding fun in the city!
Thom Harding was born and raised in the UK and USA, sharing his time between Bath and Boston. Upon completing his studies in Art History and Painting in Florence, Thom travelled around Mexico and India before moving to New Mexico to start his career as a Primary school teacher.
After completing his MA in Education, he now lives and works in Vienna, Austria and enjoys spending his free time hiking, reading, travelling and exploring around Europe.
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