Finally, the freezing temperatures and incessant clouds have parted! Blossoms are blooming, rays of sunlight are dancing through the trees, and springtime has finally arrived. For many in Vienna, the return of warmth and sunshine mean opportunities to take advantage of the many places to go swimming in the city.
Vienna is blessed with the beautiful Danube River, as well as many other bodies of water which are the perfect place for exercise and cooling off as the summer approaches.
Although the water temperature is still fresh, the time is fast approaching to take a dip in some of the cleanest water in any city in Europe. As somebody who loves wild swimming, I am very happy to live in a city that provides so many chances for adults and kids to dive in.
Diving in at Donauinsel
Most famously, Vienna can boast the 21 kilometer Donauinsel. Splitting the Danube in two down the length of the city, the Donauinsel has many places to jump into the river and cool off. But it depends on which atmosphere you are looking for, as some locations for swimming are more popular and some more private and wild.
Between Floridsdorferbrücke (U6 Neue Donau) in the north and Donaustadtbrücke (U2 Donaustadtbrücke) in the south, the island is most popular with families and tourists. These places are great to swim with the convenience of bars and cafes nearby, but definitely more frequented than other parts of the island. However, if you want a little peace and quiet then it is good to head a little farther north or south.
One of my favorite locations to swim on the northern end is just above the Nordbrücke, where it is easier to find small private areas amongst the trees in which to hang your hammock and dive in. The FKK Floridsdorf is also in this area, if you are more interested in swimming or sunbathing without being weighed down by clothes or swimsuits. There is another FKK area south of Donaustadtbrücke if getting naked is your vibe. For many foreigners living in Vienna it can be a little disconcerting, but once you feel comfortable there is nothing better than basking in the sun before jumping in to the river as nature made you!
Outside of the FKK area in the south (on the eastern side of the river), the island itself between Donaustadtbrücke and Steinspornbrücke also offer quiet and private spaces in the trees to read, relax and swim in peace away from the crowds of Copa Kagran.
The Alte Donau, a closed branch of the Danube in Floridsdorf, is also a great place to swim, although there are not any quiet or isolated places to do so. There are many meadows and parks offering space to relax and picnic in the warm weather such as Romaplatz or Obstwiese, as well as the large Gänsehäufelbad. The open-air swimming pool is great due to the large area and multiple cafes and kids play areas, and so is perfect for family trips. However, it can get very busy in the height of summer!
Sunning and swimming in the north and south
One of my favorite places to swim a little further out of the city in the south is the Nationalpark Donau-Auen. The closest National Park to Vienna, the Donau-Auen is a labyrinth of forest and marshland that feels a little more distant from the city than it actually is. Although much of the park is not swimmable due to the marshy and wild nature of the ponds, there is one larger lake named Dechantlacke that is perfect.
There are many hidden private areas around the lake to set up for the day (although I recommend arriving early for these spots), and also a few larger grass areas for families and picnicking.
Mostly it is just a very special place in the forest, far removed from city life.
It is also an FKK area, so don’t be nervous to take off your kit and soak up the sun! It can take a while to get there with public transport, but is only a short walk from the northern entrance to the National Park and easily accessible by bike.
Nearby the National Park Donau-Auen lies the Mühlwasser, a curving tributary winding through the 22nd district. Nestled amongst trees and marshland, the Mühlwasser is a thin ribbon running through the suburbs. A lot less popular than the Donauinsel, there are also open meadows to visit with family, or more quiet secluded areas if you are there exploring by bike. I can also recommend the Cafe Schillwasser or Zum Knusperhaus Cafe as places to refuel and refresh yourself on warm summer days.
If you head north of the city, a little past Klosterneuburg on the s-bahn to Tulln, you will find the small river-side villages of Kritzendorf and Greifenstein. Just a short train ride from Franz-Josef-Bahnhof or Heiligenstadt, the Donau Altarm at Greifenstain is one of the best places to spend the day by the water. The Altarm is a small lake closed off from the main body of the Danube, but still flows from the hills of the Wienerwald into the river so the water is always fresh. There are large meadows and grassy picnic areas on the west side of the lake, and smaller private places in the woods on the east side. As it is quite outside of the city it is never extremely busy, and also has two kiosks providing basic food and drin (cash
only!).
I always love my visits to the Altarm to swim through the fresh water, and it is a great escape from the city during the summer heat.
Cooling down with the kids
For many, warm summer days by the water also means family time with the kids. Fortunately Vienna has many options for younger kids to play and cool down in the water, outside of the natural swimming areas on offer. For me, with a two-year old son, it also feels safer and easier to go to a play area rather than simply hang out by the open water.
As always, Vienna has family-fun covered. There are a few different Wasserspielplätze, or water playgrounds, spread around the city so that no matter where you live you can find one in your general
area.
My favorite is the Wasserspielplatz auf der Donauinsel, located just south of the U1 Donauinsel. Although it can get crowded in the summer, the park offers many opportunities to safely play in and around water. The design of the park feels very natural, and is a great place for the kids to play while mum or dad sneak off to the river for a quiet swim alone.
In the 2nd district, not far from the Prater, is the Max-Winter-Park which also has a water play area consisting of fountains and sprayers alongside a nice regular playground. If you live in the south of the city, the Parkanlage am Leberberg near Zentralfriedhof in Simmering is also built for water play in the hot weather, as well as fun slides and climbing equipment under shady trees. Nearby is the Wasserspielplatz Wasserturm in the 10th district. The park area near the ornately beautiful 19th century water tower provides a wading pool and small streams, as well as good play equipment and water play facilities.
So as the weather heats up and it becomes important to find places to swim and cool down, take some time to explore the natural swimming and water playgrounds located around Vienna! As always, the city’s green character and beautiful environment along with it’s family-friendly focus does not disappoint.
Grab your picnic blanket and swimsuits, and dive on in!
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Read more about Vienna here in Dispatches’ archives.
Thom Harding was born and raised in the UK and USA, sharing his time between Bath and Boston. Upon completing his studies in Art History and Painting in Florence, Thom travelled around Mexico and India before moving to New Mexico to start his career as a Primary school teacher.
After completing his MA in Education, he now lives and works in Vienna, Austria and enjoys spending his free time hiking, reading, travelling and exploring around Europe.
See more of Thom’s work here in the Dispatches archive.
You can read more about Vienna here in the Dispatches archives.
