I had heard about Brno, Czech Republic’s (Czechia’s) second-largest city many years ago but had not been there until earlier this spring. Brno has an intriguing castle, beautiful architecture, and affordable eats and drinks. It’s also a quick trip from Vienna, only 90 minutes by train, as well as close to Bratislava (1 hour 40 minutes), Budapest (4 ½ hours) and Prague (2 ½).
Brno is completely different from Prague, so don’t expect the same in either layout or scope of the historic center.
(Author’s note: To pronounce Brno, the accent is on the second syllable, such as Bruh NO or Brr NO. You can hear the pronunciation here.)
Why you should go
Brno, the capital of Moravia, one of the three regions of the Czech Republic, is located in the eastern part of the country. If you have already been to Prague and some of Central Europe’s other well-known capital cities, why not take a look? Brno felt to me a bit more to me like Zagreb or Bratislava, a bit off the beaten path but still completely one of a kind.
Highlights
Brno has a really beautiful cathedral, originally built in the Middle Ages, an Old Town Hall with a tower, a castle with 700 years of history, Freedom Square, interesting food, some really good beer (check out their traditional and craft beer options), professional football, and world-renowned moto racing. It was also the long-time home of Gregor Johann Mendel (the father of genetics). Not to mention boasting a labyrinth beneath the cabbage market and other funky things.
City layout and orientation
Old Brno is on a large hill that slopes up from the Svratka River and main train station. Therefore, you will definitely get some exercise as you walk up toward the cathedral and head farther up into the hills toward the castle. Alternatively, for less of a workout – and if short on time – you can focus more on the area around the Old Town Hall and Cabbage Market Square. Here are some of the sights and eateries I recommend, with the first few being lower on the part of the historical center.
Old Town Hall, Tourist Information and tower
Stara Radnice (the Old Town Hall) was in use from the 13th until the early 20th Century and is worth popping into to see what it looks like. It is also useful for obtaining maps and other tourist information. If you have time, you can climb the tower or take a look at old photos, coins and armor on the second floor.
Cabbage Market Square, Sculptures and more
Zelný trh (Cabbage Market is the main square where you will find fresh vegetables, flowers, and local specialties for sale, including lots of salad greens; can admire beautiful sculptures and buildings in the square; see where Mozart once performed; or explore the Moravian Regional Museum.
Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
I have been to a lot of churches in Europe, and for some reason, the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul struck me as being particularly beautiful inside. The church, which sits atop Petrov Hill, dates back to the 13th century and has been through many phases. You can also climb the adjoining Petrov Tower for a hill-top view or loop around to Denisovy sady (Denis’s gardens) park.
Freedom Square
If you don’t have time to go to the castle, which is at the highest point of the city, definitely walk up to Náměstí Svobody (Freedom Square) for another stunning view of the city. It’s a wonderful place to take pictures. You can see in all directions or even relax up there as others do.
Spilberk Castle and Brno City Museum
Spilberk Castle is worth the hike for its amazing panorama of Brno and its surroundings as well as its massive City Museum. On your climb up, you will find benches to rest on along the way. Once you get inside the castle walls, you can walk around the ramparts, go to the café or the gift shop or pay to enter the history-focused Brno City Museum, which also includes a nice exhibit on modern Czech art and design, among other things.
Great food and drink
I randomly found four awesome places to eat by strolling around and looking at the people eating there. From breakfast to dinner, here is where I went when I was hungry. All but one were Czech-focused and were quite reasonably priced. Many more places looked inviting. (Check for opening hours because I’m just telling you when I ate there.)
• Dinner – U Dřevěného vlka – The first night, I ate outside—great dark beer and chicken salad with local greens, many different toppings, such as sun-dried tomatoes, and a creamy dressing.
ª Breakfast – Matejovo Pekarstvi – Fabulous modern café with many things to eat there or take to go.
• Lunch – Tripoli Starobrnenska – I had pasta there for lunch twice and a local white wine. They also offer a wide range of Italian dishes, including pizza.
• Dinner – EFI Hostinec Zelnak – I had a delicious dark beer, fried Gouda and yellow potatoes, and, for dessert, a hollowed-out lemon with ice cream inside.
• Other Options – Locals can be seen devouring zmrzlina (ice cream), slices of pizza or fast food or shopping at the grocery markets. I stopped into Albert Supermarket to stock up on snacks and drinks.
More to see and do
For more on Gregor Johann Mendel, the father of genetics – signage is posted around the city – you can explore places Mendel was associated with and/or visit the Mendel Museum.
Footbal and Grand Prix
Brno is additionally known for its professional football team, FC Zbrojovka Brno, which is part of the Czech national league, and supposedly has lower ticket prices. Motorcycle GP racing also has a long history in this region. Check out this link for information on this year’s Moto Grand Prix in June.
Break out of your rut
I enjoyed my two days in Brno’s Old Town. The buildings were lovely, the history was fascinating and poignant, and eating familiar (or unique!) food and drinking good beer and wine was both fun and relaxing. If you have the desire to see something new, after seeing other high points of Central Europe, I do recommend it.
Na zdraví!
Cheers!
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See more about the Czech Republic here in Dispatches’s archives.
Read more from Mary here.
Mary Porcella is a Europhile who has lived in Germany, Norway, Italy, and the U.S. She is a writer, editor, and photographer who loves seeing new places, returning to old haunts, and meeting up with family and friends. Her travels have taken her to more than 20 European countries, and she hopes to visit the rest in the not-too-distant future.
