The Schwarzwald, otherwise known as The Black Forest, in the state of Baden-Württemberg, Germany is definitely somewhere worth exploring, whether it is by car, on foot or – as I did recently – by motorcycle.
The forested region in the southwest of Germany, and origin of the Danube (Donau), has layers of different experiences, in summer and winter, much like the famous gateau from the region. It offers everything from relaxing spa towns to hiking or – in the winter – skiing and snowshoeing, so you are guaranteed to find something you would enjoy.
What to do
• The Black Forest High Road (Schwarzwald Hochstrasse)
This 60-kilometer road runs between the cities of Freudenstadt and Baden-Baden. Along the way there are views of the Rhine Valley and the Vosges Mountains across the border in Alsace, France.
This can be a day trip if you don’t want to stop and explore, or a weekend trip seeing the sights along the way.
• The Lothar Trail (Lotharpfad) is an adventure trail created in an area that was damaged by the Lothar hurricane in 1999. The trail runs 800 meters along footbridges, up steps and ladders with information on the regeneration of the area.
• The Mehliskopf Bobsleigh Run is a summer 1,300-meter bobsleigh ride of 13 curves, reaching up to 40 kilometers per hour along a metal track. It is open only at the weekends in low-season and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the peak season.
• Mummelsee Lake is the highest circular lake in the Black Forest and legend has it that the lake is inhabited by a water-sprite. Here you can find a hotel, restaurant, gift store and pedaloes. There is an art trail and several longer trails.
• The All Saints Waterfalls (Allerheiligen Wasserfälle) are the tallest set of waterfalls in the Black Forest at 83 meters. There is also a restaurant here.
There is a plethora of hiking trails in the Black Forest and most trails can be found online. All the trails are colour coded and there are also themed trails such as a schnapps trail.
• Hohenzollern Castle ~ The stunning castle was once the home of the Prussian king and although built in the 1800’s it was built on the ruins of the previous castle 900 meters high on a hilltop. The castle hosts various events such as a “castle experience day” where your kids can dress up like royals, open air Shakespeare theatre and musical concerts in the summer.
• Black Forest Open Air Museum ~ The museum has six fully furnished farmhouses from the region and hosts demonstrations of local crafts, traditions and farming in the area.
Spas
The area of the Black Forest is famous for its spas and thermal waters. Towns such as Baden-Baden, which has two thermal baths – one the historic baths and the second the modern thermae – have long been popular with visitors wanting to “take the waters.” The lesser known towns of Baiersbronn, Badenweiler, Titisee and Bad Wildbad have complexes and hotels offering the spa experience.
Spa prices start about 20 euros per hour. But the elegant hotels can be quite expensive, averaging about 250 euros per night.
Shopping
The Black Forest is famous for its Black Forest Gateau (Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte), Black Forest Ham (Schwarzwälder schinken), wine, schnapps, wooden cuckoo clocks, and glassblowing. Most of the towns have a selection of stores where you can buy these delights.
Where to stay
Major Black Forest towns
Freiburg, Freudenstadt and Baden-Baden are just a few of the picturesque old towns in the area.
• Baden-Baden was once the haunt of the rich and famous seeking the healing spa waters in the 19thcentury. There are still many glamorous hotels, with spas, where you can pamper yourself alongside wonderful stores and restaurants.
• Freiburg is close to France and Switzerland and from the medieval town you can pop over the border for an afternoon. It is a university town with a wonderful old town centre and a cathedral that offers stunning views from its tower.
• Freudenstadt is famous for having the largest marketplace in Germany, for its fresh air and the fact that it is a health resort of international fame. In the past King George V, Mark Twain and John D. Rockefeller stayed there and it is still a popular destination for Germans seeking to improve their “wellness.”
All these Black Forest towns offer hotels from the grandest spa hotels to the cheaper chains. The smaller towns and villages also have hotels and B&B’s, some set in the delightful countryside. Nothing better than going to sleep hearing the wind soughing in the trees and waking to the sounds of birds singing in the forest.
The Black Forest evokes a sense of history in its timber framed buildings. Its wooded hillsides and winding forest roads, with farms scattered in the valleys and glimpses of deer on the forest edge, give a glimpse into simpler times.
I hope to return to again and explore more, but next time on a motorcycle-free, dry weekend.
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See more about Germany here in Dispatches’ archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
