Lifestyle & Culture

Charlotte Laborie: Dining with Picasso and Miró at Kronenhalle in Zürich

Upon entering Kronenhalle, the first thing that strikes you is the art. No, not just the artful presentation of food, but actual masterpieces by legendary artists like Miró, Braque, and even Chagall himself. It’s as if someone took the most exclusive museum and decided to serve gourmet meals right underneath priceless paintings.

Picasso at the Kronenhalle bar.

As you wait for your meal, you might find yourself seated under a genuine Picasso, trying to act nonchalant about it.

The story of Kronenhalle is deeply intertwined with the vision of the iconic Hulda Zumsteg and her son Gustav. The journey began in 1924 when Hulda and Gottlieb Zumsteg took over the derelict Hôtel de la Couronne on Zurich’s Bellevue Square and transformed it into Kronenhalle.

When Hulda’s husband, Gottlieb, passed away in 1958, she persuaded Gustav to return from Paris, where he had been making waves as a silk trader and art collector. Gustav’s connections in the art and fashion worlds set the stage for a new era at Kronenhalle.

Hulda and Gottlieb Zumsteg

The art of the meal

His personal collection, initially confined to his apartment above the restaurant, soon overflowed into the dining rooms below, turning the restaurant into a living gallery. Under Gustav’s and Hulda’s legendary stewardship, the restaurant quickly became a magnet for writers, artists, and high society luminaries, including James Joyce, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Chagall and others. Each visit added a brushstroke to the vibrant tapestry of Kronenhalle’s history, as artists offered paintings as a thank you.

Following Hulda’s death in 1985, Gustav established the Hulda and Gustav Zumsteg Foundation in her honor. The foundation supports projects in fine art, gastronomy, and textile production, ensuring that the legacy of the Zumstegs continues to enrich these fields.

Gustav’s passion for art and dedication to Kronenhalle’s unique blend of culture and cuisine remains at the heart of the restaurant’s ethos, so don’t worry about the highbrow decor: This place is as much about hearty, soul-warming food as it is about the fine art. The menu reads like a love letter to Swiss cuisine, with classics like Zürcher Eintopf and Rösti, each dish crafted with the kind of precision and care that only comes from generations of culinary tradition.

The staff are part-time historians, part-time curators. Don’t be surprised if your server casually mentions that the spot you’re sitting in was a favorite of James Joyce, or that the table next to you was a preferred sketching perch for Giacometti. Their stories add a rich layer of narrative to your dining experience, making every bite and sip steeped in history and intrigue. The strong familial bond among the staff is palpable, contributing to the low turnover and fostering an environment where guests feel both appreciated and at home. This enduring spirit is a cornerstone of Kronenhalle’s charm, ensuring that each visit is as warm and memorable as the last.

Before you leave, consider purchasing a copy of the Kronenhalle Cookbook. It’s not just a collection of recipes but a testament to the restaurant’s rich heritage. With dishes named after famous patrons and illustrated with anecdotes and photos, it’s like taking a piece of Kronenhalle’s magic back home with you.

Timeless

In a world that’s constantly chasing the next big thing, Kronenhalle remains a steadfast bastion of timeless elegance and charm.

It’s a place where every meal is a page in a living history book, where art and food intertwine in the most delightful way, and where taking pictures is banned, meaning this is a restaurant which doesn’t get flooded by annoying tik-tok influencers filming every second of their meal with their freaking flash on.

So, the next time you find yourself in Zurich, make a reservation, and prepare to dine with the masters. After all, where else can you enjoy a five-star meal while pondering a Miró?

KRONENHALLE
Address: Rämistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich
Opening hours: Everyday from noon until midnight, but check the website during summer vacation
Phone number: 044 262 99 00
Click here to book (you HAVE to book)
Check out the menu here

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Charlotte Laborie grew up in England, Belgium and Switzerland. Charlotte then moved to Paris and graduated from Sciences Po Paris. She is still based in Paris, where she works in marketing.

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