I just got back from a cruise to one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets: the Egadi Islands. Upon landing in Palermo, we were meant to set sail towards the famous Eoli Islands, but the folk we rented the sailboat from (the company was called Gais) warned us that there would be very little wind that week and advised us to go to the Egadi Islands instead, and man did we not regret listening to him.
The Egadi Islands are a trio of stunning, tranquil islands off the western coast of Sicily, known for their natural beauty, rich history, and laid-back vibe. They are Levannzo, Marettimo, and Favignana. Together, they make for an idyllic sailing destination, perfect for those seeking both adventure and relaxation.
Located about a 12-hour sail from Palermo, if you get there at 6 knots per hour, it is a beautiful sail there and back.
Rarely have I witness the ocean decked out in such beautiful colors, from glacier blue to deep purple; it was honestly spectacular.
Although there were a few ferries, there were very few tourists, and most of those tourists were Italians. As for sailors, there were also very few of us, which was lovely because the sea and the most beautiful spots weren’t crowded like they are in Greece or Corsica.
Levanzo
Levanzo is the smallest of the Egadi Islands, where the main attraction is the art of doing absolutely nothing and doing it well. Starting with the island was an amazing idea and really allowed us to activate our holiday mode. With just a handful of locals and an army of goats, the island offers a peaceful retreat where the only thing that might interrupt your nap on the deck is the distant bleat of a goat who’s clearly got nothing better to do either.
Be sure to visit the Grotta del Genovese, a cave with prehistoric art that makes you realize that humans have been doodling on walls since forever. The cave paintings, which date back to around 10,000 B.C., depict hunters chasing down wild animals.
We had dinner in a local bakery – I can’t remember the name; maybe it doesn’t even have one – but the village is so tiny it is literally the only one there is, which just has a couple of benches and no table, but it’s a very relaxed vibe, and man was the food out of this world.
Marettimo
After Levanzo, we set sail towards Marettimo, which was my personal favorite. The island is so laid-back that even the waves seem to take their sweet time rolling in. Known for its rugged landscape and mysterious caves, Marettimo is the place to go if you want to experience nature in its rawest form.
Local lore suggests that Marettimo could be the fabled Ithaca, where Ulysses finally hung up his sails and decided he’d had enough of mythical beasts and angry gods. And sincerely, who could blame him? The island is dotted with more than 400 caves, many of which are only accessible by boat, so you can live out your very own “Odyssey” without ever running into a cyclone.
Fishing is still a big deal here, and you’re likely to see a few old-timers mending their nets on the shore. We ate dinner at the Marettimo Food 37.2.2 Restaurant and man, was it delicious. The service was amazing, and the seafood was incredibly well presented and delectable.
There are a few very cute stores that sell artisanal products, and you can even see the village’s ceramist-shaped bowls and plates and paint them in typical Sicilian style before your very own eyes.
I’m a sucker for this kind of stuff.
Favignana
Last but not least, Favignana, which was, to be honest, my least favourite. It is the biggest of the three islands and is way less charming. Known for its butterfly shape, the crystal-clear waters of Favignana are perfect for swimming – if you can find a spot not occupied by the local tuna population. I
ndeed, the island was once the epicenter of Italy’s tuna industry, and you can still visit the Tonnara, a massive tuna processing plant turned museum, where you’ll learn that tuna fishing is less about fishing and more about wrestling with sea monsters.
Despite the town being way less charming, we somehow stumbled upon an amazing restaurant called Camparia, which I can only recommend. It overlooks the port, the dishes are very well crafted and they have a good wine and cocktail selection.
Overall, this archipelago makes for an idyllic sailing destination, perfect for those seeking both adventure and relaxation. The food is lovely, sailing there is safe, ports are well-equipped, the locals are lovely, the sea is transparent, and the food is delicious.
Just don’t forget your sunscreen; the sun is more likely to bite than to kiss your skin.
You have been warned, pal.
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See more about Sicily here in Dispatches’ archives.
Read more from Charlotte here.
Charlotte Laborie grew up in England, Belgium and Switzerland. Charlotte then moved to Paris and graduated from Sciences Po Paris. She is still based in Paris, where she works in marketing.
