Out of all the places where I lived during my life, Berlin is certainly one of the most unpredictable. Each time I return for a brief vacation or a work-related trip, the city reveals yet another surprising aspect. I happened to come to Berlin in the late autumn, when the foliage was already gone and the weather forecast didn’t promise any sunshine for 10 days in a row.
Meandering through the streets in these conditions wears you down quite quickly, and one inevitably ends up in a cozy coffee shop or at one of Berlin’s many fantastic kebab places, in a museum, or, perhaps, at a Christmas market. Yet, there is another great activity that easily improves one’s mental and physical well-being — I am talking about saunas and spas: a variety of water-related leisure facilities in Berlin is remarkably vast.
I list below several places, both historic and modern, that provide an opportunity to swim, warm up and relax in the winter months.
There is, however, one important detail that has to be mentioned beforehand: it is the German Freikörperkultur (FKK), or Free Body Culture.
Traveling through Germany, you see people being totally naked in the park, on the beach, in the sauna, and in the swimming pool. Dating back to the late 19th century, the FKK tradition stems from the belief that nudity provides unity with nature and fortifies one’s health and spirit. It remains one of the staples of German everyday culture. In other words, you don’t have to worry if you didn’t pack your swimsuit – in many spas and saunas, clothing is not only optional, it’s sometimes simply not allowed.
Being naked might feel uncomfortable for a lot of people, but in my own experience, once in, the awkwardness disappears as soon as you realize that FKK is so normalized that nobody really cares. If you don’t feel like it, some places, like Turkish hamams, also offer special female/male days.
Pools, saunas and spas
The first two places are municipal swimming pools built in the beginning of the 20th century when the city’s rapid growth demanded more spaces where people could take care of their hygiene.
• Stadtbad Oderberger Straße in Prenzlauer Berg was recently renovated and turned into a hotel. You don’t have to stay there to use the spa zone, and the swimming pool is in a beautifully lit central hall. Prices start from 10 euros per 2 hours for the swimming pool, and 20 euros for both the sauna and the pool.
• Another similar facility is Stadtbad Neukölln, with its impressive central hall from 1914, which provides “an aesthetic bathing enjoyment in a marvelous swimming facility, with an herbal and colored-light sauna.” Check availability and prices before going, as the Stadtbad is currently undergoing a partial restoration.
If you are looking for a more unconventional environment, you will enjoy the following two
options:
• The first option, Liquidrom, or, as their promotion puts it, “the coolest spa in Berlin,” is located close to Potsdamer Platz. Liquidrom features minimalist architecture and a big range of options for relaxation, such as various saunas, a salt room, an outdoor thermal onsen, and, finally, a big 36°C warm saltwater pool with colors, light effects and underwater speakers.
Yes, you can float on the water listening to lounge and techno music. I mean, where else if not in Berlin?
A 2-hour entrance costs 24.50 euros, and an additional sauna fee is 2.50 euros.
• Another must-visit and currently the most hip place (hence booking in advance is highly recommended) in the city is Vabali. Way more spacious than other facilities, Vabali is a spa complex that offers access to 10 saunas, three steam baths, four pools (both indoor and outdoor), relaxation rooms with a fireplace and a restaurant. A wide range of sauna ceremonies are organized every 30-60 minutes throughout the day and are open to all visitors.
Hamams
The entrance f e on weekdays is 27.50€ per 2 hours, although, believe me, two hours never feel enough. It would be strange if a city with a big Turkish community didn’t have a number of hamams. A Turkish bath, or hamam, is a traditional steam bath that usually offers such treatments as a full-body peeling (kese) and a soapy massage (sabunlama).
• The beautiful hamam in der Schokoladenfabrik in Kreuzberg is exclusively female, and the prices start at 20 euros for a three-hour visit.
• Sultan Hamam in Schoeneberg is open to both women and men and costs 25 euros for thre hours. It also has a sauna and a nicely designed lounge. Saunas and spas are wonderful throughout the year, but they feel especially luxurious in the winter.
Whether you feel like a cosy hamam or an electronic-music party in a salter pool, Berlin definitely has it all.
–––––––––
Read more about Berlin here in Dispatches’ archives.
Nina Danilova is an art writer and contemporary art curator. She is about to finish her PhD
in Culture Studies. She grew up in Russia and lived in Germany, Estonia, Italy and
Portugal, where she is currently based. She is passionate about history, languages, food,
and dancing.
