Lifestyle & Culture

Sun, history and palms in Brussels: Exploring the royal greenhouses of Laeken

Brussels isn’t always dark, gloomy, or dreary. Come April, when the weather begins to warm, the city offers plenty of opportunities to soak up the sun and enjoy the outdoors. Popular spots such as Parc du Cinquantenaire or Parc de Bruxelles are perfect for spending a leisurely day, whether you’re lounging on the grass or sipping a drink in good company. Each year, for just three weeks, locals and tourists alike have the rare chance to explore the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken, a vast complex – almost a glass city – set in an natural landscape.

This year, the sunlit glass domes welcomed hundreds of visitors, inviting them to wander through the lush beauty of the grounds and admire the collection of rare and exotic plants. It’s worth noting that the Royal Greenhouses are only open from mid-April to early May, and tickets tend to sell out fast.

Bookings typically open in March, so if you’re hoping to visit, mark your calendar and be ready for 2026. (Next year’s dates are to-be-determined.)

I learned this the hard way in 2024, I missed the window and had to wait an entire year for another chance to explore the gardens. Here’s a pro tip to know exactly when tickets go on sale: follow Belgian news outlets, as they usually make the announcement.

The setting (Photo by Polya Pencheva)

A glimpse into royal history

Built in 1873 by architect Alphonse Balat for King Leopold II (the king of Belgium between 1865 and 1909, the complex is designed to complement the castle of Laeken. The buildings have a classical style resembling a glass city in the natural landscape. The construction of the greenhouses included multiple meetings between the king and the architect, which involved numerous meetings, sketches as well as
extensive correspondence.

But the Royal Greenhouses are more than just a royal project. They are, in fact, the cornerstone of contemporary Belgian architecture and played a key role in shaping the Art Nouveau movement, whose influence has spread across the world. What’s more, the greenhouses are home to a rich plant collection, as some species date back to the original plant collection that King Leopold II assembled.

Winter Garden (Photo by Polya Pencheva)

Highlights

One of the standout features of the Royal Greenhouses is The Winter Garden, which was built between 1874 and 1876. Designed by Alphonse Balat, it was the first greenhouse in this city of glass. The dimensions of this particular greenhouse allow for the tall palm trees that date back to the time of King Leopold II.

After its completion, this greenhouse started serving as a venue for royal receptions. Besides the Winter Garden, part of the experience allows visitors to pass through the Orangery, the square Congo Greenhouse, the Palm Plateau, and the Embarcadère.

• The Orangery is the first place you visit upon entering. Not only is it the oldest structure of the Royal Greenhouses, but during the winter months, it also serves as a home to all trees that are otherwise placed outside.

• Exploring the Congo Greenhouse adds another layer of depth to this experience, not only for its
aesthetics but also for its historical significance. This part of the greenhouse is easily recognised by the golden star that sticks out from the top of it.

• Another spot I found particularly aesthetically pleasing is the Embarcadère, a name I only learned after my visit. In this construction, visitors have the chance to see two statues by Charles van der Stappen called “Dawn” and “Dusk.” Moreover, at the exit of the Embarcadère is a replica of Donatello’s David, whose original is at the Museo Nazionale del Bargello in Florence.

Ultimately, the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken are the perfect springtime escape from Brussels’ urban pace. Unfortunately, their limited opening window makes them a hotspot for both locals and tourists, so expect crowds! Still, the combination of history, art, architecture, and nature makes it a uniquely enriching experience, well worth the wait.

Practical information

A visit to the greenhouses is surprisingly affordable, with tickets priced at just 7 euros per
person – a small fee for such a rich experience. Moreover, the visit takes between two and four hours, depending on your pace and chosen route.

Route? Yes, indeed.

In fact, visitors can choose between a shorter (2 kilometer) and a longer (3 kilometer) trail that will take
them from one place to the other. If you have the time and the weather allows it, it is highly recommended to take the longer route. There is a magnificent view of the Royal Greenhouses, and it gives you the chance to explore the park surrounding the site and the temple ruins at the edge of one of the ponds, or the rose arch.

Access

Located on the outskirts of Brussels, the Royal Greenhouses are situated near public transport stops, making them accessible from all parts of the city.

• For example, taking bus 53 in the direction Military Hospital will take you directly to stop “Serres Royales,” which is less than a one minute walk from the entrance.

• If you take trams, then you can choose from lines 7, 9, or 35, which are going to bring you to “De
Wand”. From there, the location is just 11 minutes on foot.

• However, if you are arriving from Brussels from somewhere else, consider stopping at Brussels North station and catching bus lines R30 or R31.

• Also, train station Bockstael is a 20-minute walk from the Royal Greenhouses.

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See more about Brussels here in Dispatches’s archives.

Read more from Polya here.

Polya Pencheva
+ posts

Polya Plamenova Pencheva is a young Bulgarian journalist based in Brussels, Belgium. Polya holds a Master's degree in journalism from Rijksuniversiteit Groningen and loves writing and telling the untold stories of interesting people. You can find her dining at cute café, shopping at markets, scouting second-hand shops or just chillin' at home with something great to read.

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