(Editor’s note: Inspired by Stanley Tucci’s “Searching For Italy,” expat writer/photographer Jackie Harding set out for multiple dream destinations in search of La Dolce Vita including the Trentino region. You can see Pt. 1 here, Pt. 2 here and Pt. 3 here.)
Italy is a popular destination for travellers and some cities are inundated with tourists. So, it was a delightful surprise when I visited the autonomous province of Trentino recently for a long weekend to find myself in an area that seemed less tourist, more Italian.
Trentino is a province in the north of Italy and its capital city is Trento. Once part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, it became part of Italy post-World War I. Close to the Austrian and Swiss borders it is still known by Austrians as the “Südtirol” (South Tyrol) and boasts mountains (Dolomites), the northern shores of Lake Garda, the fertile Adige valley, filled with vineyards and dotted with castles, and picturesque towns and villages.
A season for everything
Trentino is a place to travel to year-round.
In winter, skiing is the activity of choice in Trentino and, if the 800 kilometers of slopes in the Dolomites are good enough for the US Alpine team, I’m sure you can find a slope to suit your skill level. Spring, summer and autumn offer opportunities for hiking, cycling, and rafting to name just a few activities. The Val di Non has an apple blossom festival, the Fiorinda, to celebrate the blossoming orchards and the autumn is full of vines heavy with grapes.
Summer has all the activities plus windsurfing, sailing and kitesurfing on Lake Garda; climbing routes and free climbing in the town of Arco, which hosts the Rock Master Festival every year. There are music and art festivals such as I Suoni delle Dolomiti, which takes place amid the rocky crags and lush meadows.
All year round you can find mountain thermal spas to relax in.
Trentino surely must have something for everyone!
• The Adige Valley
The area I stayed was in the Adige Valley, firstly in a small village close to Rovereto and later in the capital, Trento. The valley is a verdant mass of vineyards and orchards. Wherever you look there are fields of lush green vines and trees laden with fruit, the blue-green River Adige winding through the middle, with old impressive castles protecting the valley.
Rovereto
What To Do:
· MART ~ As birthplace of one of Italy’s important futurism artists, Fortunato Depero, Roverto has a connection with art and the MART is one of Italy’s most important contemporary art museums. It hosts exhibitions and has a stunning permanent collection in the iconic building. You can also visit Depero’s home close by.
· Explore the Historic Centre ~ Although not as beautiful as Trento, the historic centre is definitely worth wandering around.
· Cycle ~ A 25-kilometer cycle path will take you along the Adige River, past acres of orchards and vineyards, from Rovereto to Trento.
· Castello di Rovereto ~ The 14th century castle is home to the Italian War Museum, as the area was the location of intense fighting during World War II.
· The Peace Bell ~ The largest bell in the world that is still rung, situated above the town, is made from melted down cannon used in WW I and is rung 100 times every evening in the hope that it will spread the message of peace.
· Dinosaur Footprints ~ In the mountain above Rovereto you can see two sets of fossilized dinosaur footprints and learn about the dinosaurs that lived in the area.
· Riva del Garda ~ The resort town on the north shore of Lake Garda is 40-minute drive from Rovereto, and although less picturesque than many local towns, offers shopping opportunities and fabulous views of the lake and surrounding mountains. From here you can take a ferry to the lake towns of Limone and Malcesine or spend a day travelling by ferry from end to end. If you are interested in sailing, windsurfing or kitesurfing this is the spot.
Where to eat and drink
The food style of Trentino is Italy meets Austria and is quite delicious. Many of the small vineyards have restaurants featuring local produce and wine. Trentodoc is the area’s local sparkling wine and is lovely. Of course there are multiple pizza places in all directions!
· Senso Alfio Ghezzi at MART (the art museum) ~ A Michelin-starred evening restaurant. The café restaurant open during the day is also worth visiting for its delicious light lunch fare.
· Il Doge ~Close to the castle, serves local food in a modern way.
· La Vineria de Tarczal ~ Just outside the town in Marano village, this was my favorite restaurant by far. A local wine producer that served up delicious local produce ~ so delicious we ate there several times!
*Helpful with gluten-free options.
· Cantina Vivallis, Nogaredo ~ This is not the cute home-style vineyard in the countryside, but offers tastings of all local wine they produce.
· Marzadro Distillery ~ This is also in Nogaredo and offers tours and tastings of their Grappa. Grappa is a digestive, primarily from Northern Italy, made from the left over grape skins used in wine making.
· Gelato! Nearly always worth two scoops and can be found on most corners in the towns.
Where To Stay
· Relais Palazzo Lodron, Nogaredo ~ 20 minutes by car from Rovereto. A quiet location (a car is a must) in an old palazzo, whose previous owners were once friends with Mozart and had some compositions named after them. Rates start at about 115 euros.
· Hotel Leon d’Oro ~ A 4-star hotel is close to the centre of Rovereto. Room rates start at about 80 euros.
There are, of course, multiple hotels and apartments in the area.
Trento
Another Trentino city well worth a visit is the provincial capital, Trento. Now that I’ve discovered this part of Northern Italy, I’m definitely returning as it has something for everyone, and I barely touched the surface on this short visit.
Trento, or “The Painted City,” is marvelous, surrounded by mountains and vineyards, decked out in stunning frescoes and surprisingly low on international tourists. History, views, great local wine and gelato all wrapped up in subdued ancient murals … fabulous!
Trento is small but is full of history being so close to the Alps and on the ancient route to Rome. Founded by the Romans, it has played an important part in the border history of Northern Italy. The university makes for a young vibrant city that is easy to walk and being so close to the mountains a great location to base yourself, whether you are a history buff or a hiker/skier.
What to do:
· Walk the historic centre ~ The area is full of medieval palazzos and handsome buildings decorated with breathtaking Renaissance frescoes (A type of mural that is painted onto wet plaster so the paint soaks deep into the plaster as it dries.) Stop for a coffee in the Piazza Duomo and soak up the sun, wander the twisting streets and gaze at the stunning artwork.
· Shopping ~ The small streets still contain wonderful stores from recognizable chains to individual stores, like the incredibly delicious smelling Speck store (a lightly smoked cured ham from the region). I dare you to walk past and not be drawn in …. unless you are vegan/veggie of course!
· MUSE ~ The fascinating science museum is worth a visit with the kids on a wet day. Reputed to be one of the more important science museums in Europe the building is modern and original and inside you’ll find everything from local geography, sustainability, dinosaurs and animals.
· Castello Buonconsiglio ~ The 13th century castle in the heart of the city is well worth a visit. The stunning castle is now a museum and hosts wonderful exhibitions. When we were there, they had an exhibition of Albrecht Dürer’s art. But even if you aren’t a museum lover the building alone is worth a visit.
· Cable Car ~ The cable car takes you up to the village of Sardagna on Trento’s mountain, from the city for breathtaking views over Trento.
· Festivals and Markets ~ The Christmas Market and festivals are seasonal activities, so check to see what is happening. The Saturday market has fresh produce from the area.
· The Countryside ~ Monte Bondone, the local mountain, is not far from the city should you want to ski in winter or hike in summer.
· Castel Beseno ~ Trentino’s largest fortress is located on a hill between Rovereto and Trento. Built in the 12th century, the ruin is fascinating to wander around and soak in the atmosphere. Whilst we were there, the castle was hosting a reenactment. The views of the Adige Valley from the castle wall are worth the visit alone.
Where To Stay
· Hi Hotel ~ This is a wellness centre and spa close to the city centre. Room rates start at about 70 euros per night.
· Grand Hotel Trento ~ A hotel with “Old World Charm” and a gourmet restaurant. Rates start at 150 euros per night.
· Komodo Short Stay Apartments ~ Modern apartments to stay in and are close to MUSE. Rates from about 87 euros per night.
· Boutique Exclusive B&B ~ We stayed here and, although small, the location next to Piazza Duomo was perfect. Rates start at about 100 euros per night.
Where to eat and drink
Trento’s cuisine is a mix of Italian and Alpine, so expect hearty meals, such as bread dumplings, spätzle and game stew alongside the traditional pizzas and pasta.
· Forsterbräu Trento ~ A popular brewery and restaurant. Expect simple, generous food and good local beer.
*Has gluten-free options on the menu.
· Ca’dei Gobj ~ Another popular local spot so reservations are a must. They serve traditional Trento dishes in a modern way.
· La Maison de Filip ~ With minimalist Scandinavian-style food, this is one of several Michelin-starred restaurants in Trento.
· Gelaterias ~ These are everywhere but a few stood out, Gelateria Cherry Gelatomania and La Gelateria. They definitely constitute a “happy place.”
· Vinom Enoteca ~ This wine bar serves great coffee and wine.
· Bar La Vie En Rose ~What a fabulous interior and this is a great spot for coffee, wine and light bites … if you can get a table.
Trentino is a wonderful treasure and definitely tourist-lite so if you go, don’t spread the word!
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Read more about Italy here in Dispatches’s archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
