I can confirm, after a weekend visit to Copenhagen, it truly is wonderful, wonderful. The capital city of Denmark, Copenhagen, is easily walkable, has great easy-to-use public transport and a wealth of history, museums and great shopping opportunities.
Like Amsterdam, Copenhagen is one of the more popular cities to visit in Europe and is easy to reach via its large airport just outside the city. The city is built on several islands and is connected to Malmö, Sweden by the famous Øresund Bridge.
So a visit to Copenhagen can involve a side-trip to Sweden, if you have the time.
It is an all-year round destination but, much like Amsterdam, be prepared for rain all year round too. Being in the north summer days are longer and can be on average in the low 30’s Centigrade, the winters have shorter days and can be grey and wet, but you could also see some snow. February is apparently the driest winter month.
What to do
Denmark is expensive but there are plenty of free things to do, such as exploring the lovely old cobbled streets and parks by foot or bicycle; exploring the canals on the “harbor bus;” window shopping and in the summer, swimming in the clear water and enjoying the relaxing vibe of this very cool city.
The Copenhagen Card ~ DISCOVER is a valuable asset when visiting the city. For 67 euros, it includes free transport to and from the airport, unlimited transport within the downtown and outside the city, and free access to many attractions. For 78 euros, the Copenhagen card ~ HOP includes free rides on the Hop-On, Hop-Off buses, and access to the main attractions of down-town.
· Boat Tours ~ Comprising of three harbors (Nord/North, Syd/South and Inder/Inner) a boat tour is a great way to get your bearings around the city and on a sunny day, it is a beautiful trip.
· Bike and walking tours are a popular way to enjoy the city and its beautiful architecture.
· Theatres ~ The Royal Danish Playhouse, which does have some English shows, is worth a visit if only to have a coffee at the café which looks over the harbor, or in the summer, a cocktail in the outside bar area. The Royal Theatre is a stunning baroque building that hosts ballet and The Royal Opera House, another spectacular building on the harbor, also offers English surtitles to its operas.
· Denmark’s National Aquarium, Den Blå Planet, is based near the airport, so easily reached on public transport, and is a wonderful place to visit with kids.
· Tivoli Gardens ~ This is Denmark’s “national treasure” and one of Walt Disney’s inspirations. This historic theme park has been around since 1843 and has some wonderful old rides such as the wooden rollercoaster that has been going since 1914, as well as new more thrilling rides. It is famous for its themed attractions and décor according to the seasons and its live music events.
· The Amalienborg Palace ~ the home of the much-loved Danish Royal Family. Here you can visit the beautiful rooms and learn of the history of the Danish monarchy. If palaces are not your scene you can walk through the palace area and watch the Hans Christian Andersen-looking soldiers guarding the palace.
· The Little Mermaid ~ this iconic representation of Andersen’s little mermaid is one of the most popular things to see in Copenhagen. Go see it early morning before the hordes of selfie-stick-carrying hordes get there but be prepared for a little disenchantment, as it is much smaller and not nearly as imposing as expected. There is however a nice walk past a harborside fortress (kastellet) and its parkland. It’s well worth going through the gates for a few minutes peace and to take a look at the brightly painted buildings and windmill. Just outside the star-shaped battlements is the English Episcopal church, St Alban’s.
· Design Museum ~ Scandinavian design is famous worldwide, and the Design Museum does not disappoint. With a large permanent collection and temporary exhibitions, it is a good place to get inspired for that home makeover you have been planning.
· Nyhavn ~ another of Copenhagen’s iconic sights, these colorful old harbor houses now are home to busy bars and gift stalls alongside the boats. In the winter it’s a wonderful spot to enjoy a mug of gløgg (Danish glühwein) and watch the steady stream of tourists from your heated seat.
· Shopping ~ Copenhagen is a great place to shop with fabulous independent boutiques and stylish small stores, to the international chains on Strøget, the designer goods store ILLUM can be found here. Many of the museums have fabulous stores too. The five floors of the Magasin du Nord are still as popular as they must have been in the 1800’s, when it opened. The Royal Copenhagen Porcelain Outlet store (Frederiksberg) is an easy metro trip from the centre and if its collectible blue and white china is your thing you will get some good deals here.
Where to eat and drink
The city is jam-packed with great restaurants from its fifteen Michelin-starred dining experiences to small independent spots. Copenhagen has a reputation for being innovative in the food world and it doesn’t disappoint. With all those canals and harbors you can easily find a waterfront restaurant with views to enjoy in winter and summer.
Smørrebrød is the traditional lunch choice, and the open sandwiches with pickled herring, egg, shrimp, roast beef and many other delicious toppings, are delicious, but hotdogs are also a surprisingly popular choice from the many street vendors.
For some great restaurant tips check out Phil Rosenthal’s (Somebody Feed Phil Netflix) website.
No Michelin star restaurants for me sadly but I did have some lovely food in:
• Huks Fluks and Cantina.
I was there for the first Juleøl (Christmas beer) of the season, the first Friday of November, and it is quite a celebration! Denmark has more than 200 breweries, so beer is a big part of the city’s culture.
Check out gløgg too, a winter delight that warms from the inside out. The hot sweet wine is served with sliced almonds and raisins in the mug and is the best way to keep that Baltic chill at bay.
Where to stay
There are lots of great hotels in the city: boutique, grand, spa, mid-range and family friendly. I stayed in Hotel Bethel on Nyhaven, which not only was a comfortable hotel but in a great downtown location, with a fabulous view of Nyhavn from my window.
Rates start at about 945 Danish krone, or about 127 euros, per night.
Copenhagen, rather like the Smørrebrød, has no hidden negatives. It’s all there right in front of you and leaves you wanting to experience more, whether it’s in summer or winter. I plan to return to top up my “hygge” in the near future.
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Read more about Copenhagen here in Dispatches’ archives.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
