There’s something curious about Valencia. It lacks the natural or artistic splendour of other parts of Spain, yet all expats who live there prefer it to other Spanish cities. Everyone has their own reasons for choosing it over Barcelona or Madrid.
I heard all kinds of praise:
• Valencia is calmer.
• It’s cleaner.
•It’s more affordable.
• People are more down-to-earth.
I might add that it’s also less touristy, although, according to locals, that has been changing in recent years.
For me, Valencia provides a more authentic, laid-back experience. It still feels like a place that belongs to its residents, rather than one catering to visitors
While Mallorca is being taken over by German-style beer halls and Barcelona by Anglo- style Matcha brunch spots, Valencia still feels Spanish. Be it bars serving esmorzaret for breakfast, markets selling artisan regional produce or venues celebrating home-grown talent, the city mesmerised me with its local flavour. Eclectic, affordable dining, shopping and entertainment are abundant.
This past summer I wandered the city streets for miles, despite the relentless heat, and stumbled upon many gems outside the recommendations I was given. Locals pointed me towards fancy restaurants scattered across the Old Town and the city centre, but I found myself far more drawn to the colourful, traditional architecture of seafront Cabanyal and to the maze-like streets of Ruzafa. Here’re my top choices for places worth checking out throughout all these neighbourhoods
From brunch to late-night tapas ….
Ruzafa never ceases to surprise me with the sheer variety of its culinary scene. As evening falls, tables spill onto pavements and little plazas, and locals and tourists alike settle in for unhurried meals beneath the stars. With the streets largely free of traffic, there’s an easy-going rhythm to dining here – a sense that the night is all
yours.
My first choice for any meal, be it brunch, tapas or a quick bite, is La Chata Ultramarinos. This is also an excellent spot to try out esmorzaret – the traditional Valencian mid-morning breakfast that comes in the form of hearty meat-filled sandwiches accompanied by olives, pickles and peanuts.
To top it all, customer service at La Chata Ultramarinos is exceptional. My server’s English was worse than my basic Spanish, yet her hospitality and kindness exceeded all expectations. She fluttered around the tables like a busy bee, trying to give everyone her best recommendations and the speediest service possible.
Tortilla must be crispy on the outside and runny on the inside; that’s how a Spanish friend taught me to cook it. It’s an art form I have not quite mastered yet, but I know where to get a good one. At Pizcueta 14 in Eixample, they serve you a whole tortilla – not just one of those tiny slices you get in most restaurants and bars throughout the country – and you can choose from two different sizes. It’s done just the right way – crispy on the outside, runny on the inside.
FOR INTERNATIONAL STREET-STYLE FOOD
• Whenever I craved a quick bite, I’d head to Luisona. Their arepas and tequenos are top-notch, yet extremely affordable, and orders are always served at lightning speed and with a smile.
• For American food, the Chick Shack serves the juiciest burgers and wraps I’ve had anywhere in Spain, and portions are very generous.
• My biggest culinary surprise, however, was Italian-run and operated Ciao Bella Pizza, an under-the-radar suburban take-away serving the crispiest pizza I’ve eaten outside of Italy. The ovens heat the place like a sauna, and if you grab one of the few bar stools available, you might break into a sweat while eating. At dinnertime there’s a queue in the street, which is hardly surprising given the fantastic quality of the food.
FOR THE SWEET-TOOTHED
Valencia offers a choice between fire and ice when it comes to desserts. The latter comes in scoops of Italian gelato, the former in dollops of Spanish buñuelos.
• Buñolería Churrería El Contraste might be a mere street-corner greasy spoon, bu it’s the best place to kick off the day with all-indulgent, traditional snacks – either a coffee with buñuelos or churros dipped in hot chocolate. But hurry up! As early as 8 a.m., the few curb-side tables get occupied by pensioners who relish breakfast with their friends. Arrive late, and you will have to make do with a take-away.
• Later in the day, Gelateria La Romana serves its own signature flavours – all quite inventive and surprising. The international chain traces its origin back to a gelato shop that first opened in Rimini in 1947. Today its branches span several European countries, with two in Valencia – one in the old town and another in Ruzafa. The latter appealed to me much more because it had ample seating, which makes it perfect if you want a sit-down experience or if you’re travelling with kids.
COCKTAIL O’CLOCK CURES
No matter how many calories I pack or how many eateries I’ve checked out, a cocktail still feels like a great treat at the end of the day. My favourite drinking hole is La Bella de Cádiz. Its decor is a humble, yet eclectic collection of kitsch retro objects and art works. Therein lies its charm and cosiness. I don’t feel like I’ve gone to a bar, but as if I’ve walked into my grand aunty’s mid-century lounge.
My ecommendation is to try their excellent tinto de verano. This traditional Spanish cocktail is a mix of red wine and lemon soda, and because it’s lighter than sangria, it’s a drink for the summer heat.
FROM DANCE HALLS TO BEACH PARTIES\
Summer is possibly the worst time to visit the South of Spain. You cannot be out and about in the middle of the day unless you want a heatstroke, yet staying indoors all day long makes life a little oppressive. With only mornings and evenings being tolerably cool, I always have to choose my entertainment wisely. This summer I wanted to dance, and I was pleasantly surprised to find out that Valencia has a thriving Latin dancing scene. Salsa and bachata parties are held daily, or rather nightly, and every event includes the mandatory workshops for those who need a little brushing up on their skills.
Small, intimate dance halls, like unfussy Guarapo, hold dance events throughout town. Yet, to me, Cabanyal is the best area for a proper night out on the town. The biggest parties take place at Akuarela Playa. This beachfront, palm-studded nightclub boasts several dance halls and ample outdoor space, perfect for sipping on a cocktail while enjoying the sea breeze. On Sundays, Akuarela hosts salsa and bachata parties across all rooms; the rest of the week, you can enjoy a regular DJ night.
Down the beach promenade from Akuarela, you will find the somewhat edgier, less sparkle, more spirit La Fabrica de Hielo. This former ice factory (as you might have gleaned from its name) has been converted into an indie cultural centre. The factory hosts live music, DJ nights, performances, exhibitions, markets – all served with the mandatory tapas. Pop around, see what’s on, and if it’s not your thing, you can cradle a glass of sangria all night long – there’s ample indoor and outdoor seating.
Should you tire of that, the beach is right across the road. There you can find locals having picnics and impromptu dance parties on weekend nights – the cherry on top of Valencian nightlife.
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Read more about Valencia here in Dispatches’ archives.
See more from Teodora here.
Teodora Gaydarova
For 15 years Teodora Gaydarova has been covering culture, travel, hospitality and other beats for different publications and global brands. A Bulgarian by birth, she has lived all over the United Kingdom and parts of Spain, and she writes about the experience of navigating life across different countries and cultures on her blog, The Local Insider.
