Croatia is associated with the sun, sea and scorching summer temperatures, but it packs a punch when the temperatures drop – particularly in the quirky capital. Zagreb does Christmas so well, in fact, that Advent in Zagreb (or just Advent Zagreb, as it’s called this year) won the Best Christmas Market award issued by the readers of the European Best Destinations Portal three times on the trot.
It all kicked off this year with the traditional lighting of the first Advent candle on the old Manduševac fountain in the heart of Zagreb’s main square on 29 November. That move saw the square become the heart of Bijeli Zagreb (White Zagreb) and began a jam-packed calendar full of festive cheer, from art and museum events to interactive experiences and concerts in locations such as the Klovićevi Dvori gallery that will stretch all the way until 7 January.
More than 25 Christmas Markets are spread throughout the city’s main squares and promenades offering artisan products and handicrafts as well as food. There’s is a daily program of open-air entertainment and cultural performances, so lots to see and do. And, for that matter, buy.
Enjoy some firm favourites – from the Ice Park to Advent cottages
The usual Christmas favourites are implied. That includes transforming Trg Kralja Tomislava (King Tomislav Square) into a giant ice rink, as well as advent cottages popping up all over the city tempting all those who pass them with the scent of sausages, mulled wine, rakija and Croatian festive delights like fritule.
A food zone blending Croatian with international dishes
Talking of food, this year visitors can enjoy an entire zone dedicated just to food – from both the traditional continental Croatian dishes to street food from around the world. The foreign presence has been increasing in Zagreb over recent years, making this year’s advent celebrations the perfect backdrop for some mouthwatering fusion.
Get into the festive spirit in Gornji Grad – Zagreb’s oldest and most beautiful quarter. The main novelty for this season’s celebrations however is that the city’s Upper Town (Gornji Grad), an historic part of Zagreb in which the famous St Mark’s Church and the Lotrščak Tower are located, is donning its festive outfit once again.
After a break, this part of Zagreb which offers sweeping views of the sprawling city below is back on the Christmas map, meaning a stroll down Strossmayer Promenade will be filled with not only beautiful views of the city, but a festive atmosphere to boot.
Even the trams are donning Christmas outfits
Two of the city’s iconic blue trams will also be kitted out for Christmas, making even the act
of travelling into the heart of the city an experience to put you in exactly the right mood for
the season.
Family fun throughout the city
Rides in Santa’s sleigh through Zrinjevac Park, rescuing Santa with Iva at Mala Scena and enjoying an immersive nativity experience at Opatovina Park will have the youngest Christmas lovers hooked, and few can resist a ride through old Zagreb in retro (and also electric) car as the lights twinkle and the darkness descends.
Museums? Maybe ….
I could go on about how rich Zagreb is when it comes to museums, and they’re not your typical ones, either. I’m not talking Ancient Egypt or Roman pottery, but mushrooms, hangovers, broken relationships and everyone’s guilty pleasure – chocolate. Advent Zagreb is turning some of these already unique museums into festive hotspots this year, with some (such as the aforementioned Chocolate Museum, as well as the Museum of Lost Tales and the Museum of Laughter) boasting something special for those who visit. Interactive, AR and VR content, art installations such as the one at the city’s famous Oktogon building and Christmas chocolates from across the ages will all be part of the city’s festive museums
offer.
Fool around on Esplanade Hotel’s Oleandar Terrace
Zagreb’s Esplanade Hotel is synonymous with Christmas in the capital, and this year is no different. Home to the much loved Fooling Around event, this iconic hotel is once again a winter wonderland, serving food, drinks, and festivity every single day. While many hotels across Zagreb will be spilling over with Christmas cheer this year, this particular hotel is always worth a mention of its own. Known as an architectural gem, it was built in 1925 to accommodate the passengers of no less than the Orient Express, making it a cult hotel not only in Croatia but in the far wider sense.
Even London is getting involved
What better way could there be to put Christmas in Zagreb on the map than putting it in London’s tube stations? Thirty of London’s underground stations have glossy images of the Croatian capital’s celebrations on their walls, drawing the crowds back to Croatia outside of summer.
Zagreb is connected
Christmas in Croatia, and particularly Zagreb, has attracted the attention of global media outlets for several years now. The capital has been the subject and both interest and praise from the likes of CNN, Conde Nast Traveler and National Geographic. Zagreb is an incredibly well-connected city throughout the year, with cheap flights on offer from just about anywhere in Europe, and there’s so much on offer that it’s difficult to condense it all. Fifty-three locations across the city have something special on offer to all visitors this festive season.
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Read more about Zagreb here in Dispatches’ archives.
Lauren Simmonds
Lauren Simmonds is the editor of Total Croatia News, the largest English language portal in Croatia. She lives in Zagreb, Croatia, and is a translator, content writer, interpreter and the co-author of "Croatia - A Survival Kit for Foreigners," which was published in 2022.
