Paris, before being a tangible place, is a city built of the dreams of others. There are so many floating ideas and notions about what a typical day roaming its streets looks like, so many myths that surround its inhabitants and so many tales linked to its existence that it all becomes dizzying. I for one, have no problem embracing cliches when they serve what’s most important to me: my enjoyment of good food, nice wine and great company.
So, when it comes down to that particular dream – that of a French café nestled on the right street corner, with the right menu and the ideal lighting – I’ll be the first one to indulge.
Let me give you a short list of the very best spots in Paris in which to sit, nursing a black allongé or digging into the best tartare around:
Le Mansart
1 rue Mansart, 75009
Starting off strong with one my first go-to’s in Paris. When I’ve been away for a bit, I head to Le Mansart to find my classic French dreamy albeit extremely busy café experience.
The Mansart owes its success to its delicious and super-affordable menu packed with Parisian essentials.
Although it only has one veggie options (a changing dish of vegetable troffie pasta), what it lacks in variety it makes up for in pure quality. The 9 euro Tartare is made to perfection and served with the crunchiest pommes allumettes. Their fluffy, airy choux are a dessert must and if you manage to snatch a seat on the terrace, you’ll have the ideal spot from where to observe the quartier’s locals going about their day. Although service isn’t always the warmest, the food, drinks and overall atmosphere do invite a regular repeat of the experience.
Le Café des Anges
66 rue de la Roquette, 75011
The angelical name and prime location near Bastille are a good base from which to start a review of this cute café. I love going there on the first of January towards the end of the day, after I’ve slept away the previous’ nights festivities in order to indulge in a comforting, warm meal.
The interior of the café with its cozy booths makes it a great winter hideaway: If I could hibernate there, I would.
The 13 euros coquillettes gratin is every nostalgic French adult’s dream and the team behind the bar is both international and lovely. Their breakfast menu is equally as lovely and more affordable than most places when it comes to its undeniable quality.
L’Orillon
35 rue de l’Orillon, 75011
This one is a most recent find of mine and believe me when I say I plan on going back often. This neighbourhood bar and café offers the very French option of having your meal and drinks at the bar (otherwise known as the Comptoir) for a reduced price. Think 1 euro coffees and 6 euros sandwiches made with crunchy baguette. Their cheese and charcuterie planches are a great addition to their well-stocked cellar with its myriad natural wines to choose from.
At night, the place becomes packed with trendy 30-somethings here to try the exquisite tapas and enjoy them on gorgeous hardwood tables. For a quieter and more local experience, come try one of their snacks at some point in the afternoon.
Francis Labutte
122 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
Colourful and warm, Francis Labutte is on Montmartre’s more affordable side which explains the crowds of youngsters often found on its large terrace. Nestled at the bottom of the hill, it is a great spot in which to rest and restore oneself before heading up the stairs to the Sacré -Coeur Basilica.
I tend to visit it either for a quick lunch ( 10.50 euros for a generous croque monsieur with fries and salad) or an early evening drink with friends. Their wine and aperitif menu is varied and proposes the option to have your wine in smaller pitchers, a great way to go if trying several different ones is what you’re after. Whilst you’re there, do explore the plethora of little theatres that hide in the nooks of Montmartre.
You can see menus here on their Instagram page.
Chez Georges
11 rue des Canettes, 75006
The last entry in this list is a relatively unorthodox one as we’re talking more wine bar than café. The lovely Chez Georges (also known as Comptoir des Canettes) is the 6th arrondissement’s mythical hideout. Its underground stone walled cabaret room hosts a variety of comedy and jazz nights and the dimly lit upstairs area make it the perfect date spot. As well as a healthy wine list, they do serve food other than planches. I would recommend trying the Boeuf Bourguignon.
Sat right outside of the rue Princesse, Chez Georges is the best place to start a Rive Gauche bar crawl. The promises of a day in Paris are many and varied, ranging from beautiful sights to cultural enlightenment. The safest way to make sure they are fulfilled is to count on a full stomach or at least a bit of curb side reverie whilst observing the busy, fashionable and perpetually exasperated by-passers that the capital bustles with.
You can see an on-line menu here. You can make reservations here.
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Read more about Paris here in Dispatches’ archives.
Zoé Manset
Zoe Manset is a French actress, writer and producer based in London, UK. After growing up in the Fragrant Harbour otherwise known as Hong Kong, Zoe moved to London in 2018 to pursue a BA in Art History at the Courtauld Institute of Arts. Missing the stage too much, she then completed a two year MFA in drama school and is now living the freelance actor life at full speed. Zoe is a fashion history lover, a great pub amateur, a dancer and a big foodie!
