(Editor’s note: This is Pt.2 of a two-part travel post about Montenegro. You can jump to Pt. 1 here. Due to technical difficultuies, the original was deleted. This is an updated version.)
One of the smallest countries in Europe, Montenegro is located below Croatia and above Albania on the Adriatic coast. A land of rugged mountains, narrow pebble beaches and an enormous coastal fjord, beautiful enough to rival any Norwegian fjord, the country is still relatively unknown … but of course that won’t last forever!
Here’s Pt. 2 of my post from my recent visit:
The Durmitor National Park
When you are tired of gazing at the clear blue waters of the Bay of Kotor, with an Aperol Spritz in your hand (I’m not sure you ever get tired of that!), it’s time to make your way north to the stunning Durmitor National Park, which is only two and a half hours away by car. Public transport is spotty at best to a rental car or tour/taxi is the best option.
Zabljak
The town of Zabljak is the centre of the Durmitor area and it is here you will find the biggest selection of places to stay, and it’s a good base from which to explore the area. The original town was pretty much destroyed during World War II and since then has become the centre of winter sports and outdoor activity for Montenegro. Whilst we were there the town seemed to be going through an enormous “growth spurt,” with hotel, home and road construction.
The UNESCO protected Durmitor National Park is the reason people come north from the coast in Montenegro. It’s the place to hike, climb, raft, zip line or just gaze in awe at its majesty.
With 48 peaks, glacial lakes, Europe’s deepest canyon and the Tara River, it offers adventure both in summer and winter.
What To Do
The Tara River ~ Rafting is not something you can do on your own, but the area has an abundance of reasonably priced rafting and outdoor activity companies. From thrill-seeking white water rafting trips of up to three days or slower more peaceful rafting, or “canyoning” in the hidden places of Europe’s deepest canyon (1,300m deep) the Tara River will not disappoint any adrenaline junkie.
Zip Lining ~ Still need a fix of adrenaline? Then maybe zip lining across the Tara Canyon will help. 1,050 meters across the world’s second deepest canyon at 80-120 kph might fix that! There are several companies to choose from: Extreme Zipline Tara, Red Rock Zipline, and Zip Line Tara. Personally I could never dangle over the second deepest canyon in the world on a piece of wire, traveling at 120 kilometers per hour, but each to their own and my husband survived …. with a smile on his face.
Climbing and Hiking ~ With 48 peaks there are plenty of mountains to climb and companies that will help you if you are a novice. Durmitor National Park, 241 square kilometers, is full of great trails to hike from easy strolls to 10-hour beasts.
Crno Jezero (Black Lake) is a great starting point but also has an easy trail, 3.5 kilometers, suitable for kids (not stroller friendly). The extra perks to this lake are the opportunity to swim in good weather or the great café where you can self-righteously sip your chilled beer/wine after some exercise.
Some other moderate trails are Zmijinje Jezero (Snake Lake), named after its shape not its residents, around 4 kilometers round trip, Zelini Vir and Jablan Jezero. A longer hike is Planica, about eight hours round trip starting from Crno Jezero.
The highest peak, Bobotov is absolutely for experienced hikers at 2,523 meters, so don’t risk it if you are a novice or under prepared.
There is a Via Ferrata (hiking trail with cables and metal rungs) to try if your adrenaline levels still have not been boosted enough. Several companies give tours and help with this if this is a first for you.
The Durmitor Ring Tour ~ This 85-kllometer circle is a great way to see some of Durmitor’s amazing scenery if you are pressed for time. It takes about 2-3 hours, if you don’t keep stopping for photos and gasps of amazement. A good place to start is Žabljak and from here you’ll pass an old ski lift, and wind your way along narrow roads with daunting drops, and peaceful birdsong forests. After passing through rolling farmland you arrive at the stunningly panoramic Sedlo Pass, through which wild horses and sheep roam the pastures, watched over by the striking mountains.
Where to stay
Zabljak has many private chalets and holiday homes to rent and several hotels such as Hotel SOAand the lovely Casa di Pina Eco Lodge, where we stayed, who looked after us with kindness and helpful local knowledge.
Where to eat
There are several good restaurants in Zabljak, such as Restoran Oro, which was a popular spot so book ahead. Konobo Luna had great reviews and there are of course pizzerias and local restaurants to try in Zabljak. On the banks of Crno Jezero is a lovely restaurant with wonderful views over the lake.
The mountains in Montenegro offer a perfect contrast to its fjord coastline and historic towns, and within only a few hours drive you could sample both over a long weekend.
Before my visit I knew very little of this country but now I am one of its biggest fans.
Photographer/writer Jackie Harding was born in the United Kingdom. As a long-time expat, she lived in Boston for 12 years and in the Netherlands for the past 10 years.
Trained as a nurse in the U.K., she worked for nine years in the United States as a special education teacher’s assistant. Since moving to the Netherlands, she has discovered writing and photography.
Contributing to Dispatches since 2016, Jackie has written about her travels around Europe as well as about expat life and issues.
She also covered the Women’s March Amsterdam.
She’s married to British businessman Martin Harding and is the mother of two international adult children.
