If you’re an art-lover like me, Saint-Paul-de-Vence might just be your perfect weekend getaway. Perched on a hill just a short drive from Nice, this tiny medieval village has been charming artists, writers and dreamers for more than a century.
It’s one of the oldest villages in the French Riviera, but there’s nothing dusty about it. It’s alive with creativity and history.
People don’t just come here to look around — they come to feel something.
Maybe that’s why it’s been a magnet for some of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Marc Chagall lived here for nearly 20 years and you can still visit his grave, tucked away in a peaceful corner of the village cemetery. Matisse, Picasso, and Braque were regulars too. The light, the silence, the sea in the distance: it all seems to make time slow down.
You’ll see that art isn’t tucked away in galleries here, it spills into the streets, the restaurants, the air. The Fondation Maeght, just a short walk from the village center, is one of the best places to experience it. The museum was founded in the 1960s by Marguerite and Aimé Maeght, who were close friends and patrons of many modern artists. They created the space as a sort of creative sanctuary, and artists like Joan Miró and Giacometti didn’t just send in their work, they actually helped design parts of the building and gardens themselves. This place is something special. It’s all sculpture gardens, open courtyards, and wild bursts of color. Even the door handles were sculpted by Giacometti (say what!!).
Back in the village, you’ll find tiny art galleries, beautifully curated boutiques and one or two shops that feel like treasure troves of vintage books and Provençal trinkets. The whole town is built for wandering. Don’t miss the views from the ramparts, because on a clear day, you can see all the way to the sea. And if you’re lucky enough to catch golden hour, the light on the old stone is unforgettable.
One of the most famous spots in town is La Colombe d’Or, the hotel and restaurant that pretty much invented the “artist hangout” vibe before it was a thing. (Rates start at 385 euros per night.) Back in the day, the owners used to let artists pay with paintings if they couldn’t afford their bill. That’s why today, while you’re sipping a glass of Côte de Provence, there might be an original Picasso or Calder hanging a few feet from your table.
It’s a little surreal, and totally wonderful.
But you don’t have to stay at La Colombe d’Or to have a dreamy weekend. If you’re into something more low-key and modern, Toile Blanche is a gorgeous boutique hotel just outside\ the village, run by the Leroy Brothers – a family of artists themselves. The rooms are sleek and peaceful, and there’s an on-site gallery and two restaurants. It’s got that perfect balance of creative energy and quiet luxury. Rates start at about 800 euros per night for a suite in high season.
If you’re the kind of traveler who likes to stretch your legs, the nearby hills offer some beautiful walking trails. The Col de Vence is especially scenic, with views stretching over olive groves and valleys. In the warmer months, the village also has an outdoor market filled with local cheeses, olives and handmade goods, the kind of place where you go in “just to look” and come out with a basket of lavender soaps and sun-dried tomatoes.
The details
Now, the practical stuff: Getting to Saint-Paul-de-Vence is easy, whether you’re coming for the day or spending the night. From Nice, you can take a 30-minute taxi ride which will cost around 40- 50 euros, or a TER train to Cagnes-sur-Mer (about 15 minutes), then hop on the 655 bus that winds its way up to the village in about half an hour.
If you’re driving, be aware that parking is just outside the village walls since the old town itself is car-free (another reason it feels like a step back in time).
Saint-Paul-de-Vence is one of those places that surprises you – not because it tries to, but because it doesn’t.
It’s small, quiet, and timeless. You come expecting to look at some art and admire a few views, and instead you find yourself slowing down, noticing light and stone and silence in a way you hadn’t in a long time. It’s a weekend that stays with you. And whether you make it a quick day trip from Nice or stay overnight in the footsteps of legends, it’s absolutely worth it.
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Read more about France here in Dispatches’ archives.
Charlotte Laborie grew up in England, Belgium and Switzerland. Charlotte then moved to Paris and graduated from Sciences Po Paris. She is still based in Paris, where she works in marketing.
