For most, Croatia is synonymous with sunshine and sea, and it has become one of the top tourism stars of the Mediterranean. But winter is when Croatia’s soul really shows. As the temperatures drop, Croatia dons its festive attire and cities nationwide put on Advent events.
It’s quite amazing to see “summer cities” such as Dubrovnik and Split transform just as easily into winter wonderlands, and the award-winning Advent in Zagreb event is a must visit. It was Advent in Zagreb that put Croatia on the winter tourism map, proving that the country didn’t miraculously vanish at the end of September.
Being crowned the best Christmas market in Europe for three consecutive years by the European Best Destinations portal, the Croatian capital was flung into the winter spotlight. CNN ranked it among the world’s top Christmas markets to visit this year.
Let’s look at what is on offer across Croatia for the festive period.
Zagreb
Beginning 30 November and stretching to 7 January, Advent in Zagreb is an absolute must-visit.
Living here, I could go on about it forever. I won’t, but I will say that visiting this city over the festive period is when you’re guaranteed to fall in love with it. Zagreb is reborn as a festive paradise that can (and has) given Christmas markets in the likes of Germany and Austria a run for their money.
The many squares are packed with little kućice (cottages) selling Croatian produce such as Slavonian kobasice (sausages) and rakija to wash them down with, fritule (a type of Croatian doughnut), roasted chestnuts, all kinds of local takes on hot dogs and plenty of international street food from across the world.
The decorations and installations that adorn the city are magical for kids and adults alike, with King Tomislav Square turning almost entirely into an ice rink. Countless festive lights are strung along each street, creating the warm atmosphere only Christmas can bring, in contrast with the freezing temperatures and Zagreb’s characteristic fog.
Open-air concerts and the now-iconic fuliranje (roughly translating to fooling around) are set to bring joy once again.
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik isn’t the first city that springs to mind when thinking of Christmas, as the Pearl of the Adriatic only exists for many in summer. Prepare to be surprised by the Dubrovnik Winter Festival, which has been held since 2014.
Advent in Dubrovnik sees one of the most famous streets in Europe, Stradun, transform into a festive spectacle. Lights stretch from one side to the other, a large Christmas tree appears in front of the Church of Saint Blaise, and the Christmas cheer engulfs this Mediterranean gem. Other locations, such as Uvala Lapad, have plenty of content for kids, including an ice rink and a little Christmas train. Lazareti, close to the Old City, turns into the North Pole.
Kicking off 30 November and lasting until 21:00 on New Year’s Day 2025, concerts, kućice and goodwill will bring delight to one of the most beautiful Mediaeval cities in the world.
Split
Advent in Split is scheduled for 30 November and will end on January 6th, 2025.
Like Dubrovnik, most people only associate the Dalmatian capital with summer. Close to numerous islands that also draw hordes of visitors over the summer, people often imagine Split shutting down when the temperatures drop. Advent in Split might make you rethink that. The end of November sees Split make the switch from summer hotspot to festive paradise.
Kuciće line the ancient streets and squares, with the central part taking place along the famous Riva (Split waterfront) under palm trees wrapped in twinkling lights. Those lights can be seen adorning the traditional Dalmatian architecture, with even Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace donning a festive look.
Local food, handmade souvenirs and festive programmes can be enjoyed throughout the Christmas period, while fireworks, open-air concerts, champagne and cheer mark the New Year in Split.
Rijeka
Advent in Rijeka and at Trsat Castle can be enjoyed from 30 November until 7 January.
Rijeka is Croatia’s industrial city on the northern coast, sitting within a stone’s throw of the Italian and Slovenian borders in part of the country known as Kvarner. It’s only a two hour drive from Zagreb, making it an easy trip for anyone wanting to see how Christmas is done on the coast without having to travel down to Dalmatia.
Rijeka’s main street, Korzo, is decorated with lights, and a rich gastronomic offer is sure to appeal to all. The little Father Christmas train making its rounds in the centre of town is a hit with the youngest visitors. The famous Christmas kućice will also be present in the heart of Rijeka, as will a varied festive fair for visitors of all ages to enjoy.
What makes Rijeka different is that the Christmas celebrations don’t begin and end in the city, as the nearby Trsat Castle comes alive as a wintery palace in its own right.
Strings of dazzling lights shine the spotlight on this grand structure thought to sit in the same place as an ancient Illyrian fortress. As one of the oldest fortifications on the Croatian coast, it has no problem attracting crowds during summer, so why should it be any different come winter? Trsat Castle oozes Christmas spirit and makes for something completely different on dark winter nights.
Zadar
Zadar is another Dalmatian city that surprises visitors with how much it comes to life at Christmas. Swapping the sun and the beach for mulled wine and ice skating, Zadar embraces the festive period just as well as it embraces summer. Advent Zadar includes open-air concerts, ice skating, and a traditional Christmas market to enjoy amid the ancient Roman and Venetian architecture of the Old Town.
The Christmas Fairy Tale in Cedulin Palace’s atrium is something special, as is the welcoming in of the new year in the one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in Croatia, once named Zara by the Romans. It starts earlier than most other advent celebrations, beginning 24 November the 24th and lasting until 2 January, promising fun and festive cheer to all.
Christmas is a fantastic time to visit Croatia. Winter is when the country trades the warmth of the sun for the warmth of its heart, and there’s no better time to begin getting better acquainted with it.
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See more Christmas market posts here in Dispatches’ archives.
Lauren Simmonds
Lauren Simmonds is the editor of Total Croatia News, the largest English language portal in Croatia. She lives in Zagreb, Croatia, and is a translator, content writer, interpreter and the co-author of "Croatia - A Survival Kit for Foreigners," which was published in 2022.
